From palaces to pastries, tradition isn’t hard to find in Austria’s capital – but modern dining is taking centre stage.
My very first meal in Vienna is steeped in Old World opulence. Steps away from the Belvedere’s gilded Baroque palaces, terraced garden, and art collection bursting with Klimt and Schiele, Café Goldegg is a cultural landmark in its own right. Founded in 1910, the restaurant still has tuxedoed waiters who serve schnitzel and strudel to patrons in plush booths, against a backdrop of Art Nouveau design.
Café culture
While some cities might preserve one or two of these historic coffee houses for tourists, in Vienna, countless examples are very much alive – and brimming with locals. While the world yearns for “third spaces,” places to gather with friends or sit alone and read the paper, unbothered, they’re still the norm in Austria’s capital. And now these beloved gathering spots for food and drink are joined by a new generation of distinctly modern options.
“You’ll see many cafés are also concept shops,” explains Basti Knöbl, my guide from Rebel Tours. That means today’s cafés do double-duty, selling everything from makeup to vintage clothing. First, we head to the hip seventh district to try Calienna (“California and Vienna”), a lush, two-storey café/plant store where you can pick up a terrarium along with your latte. Later, at Ototo, matcha and cold brew share space with gourmet groceries, like organic chocolate, sauerkraut, and skincare.
Daring dinners
For a meal that’s both modern and utterly Austrian, I head somewhere that sounds awfully familiar: Meinklang Hofladen. The Burgenland winery has made waves in Canada, thanks to crowd-pleasing natural options (plus its recognizable bovine label). At the eponymous restaurant, find farm-to-table dishes with ingredients from its biodynamic property. Sit by the open kitchen to watch meal prep amidst simmering jus and jars of preserves, and don’t skip the fresh sourdough bread and whipped butter. And the adjoining farm shop is the perfect place to pick up provisions (meat, cheese, and wine) for a picnic or packed lunch.
My next notable meal serves up vibes alongside incredible cuisine, and reminds me that fusion isn’t just a trend in Vienna. Thanks to a mix of history and geography, “Viennese cuisine” can often be traced to dishes like Hungarian goulash and cotoletta alla Milanese. At hotspot Cucina Itameshi, Japan meets Italy in specialties like tuna e melone and burrata with nori. All in a Venetian-inspired building that sells risograph prints and houses a vinyl-cutting workshop in back. It’s easy to see why people book months in advance.
In the end, I find the crown jewel in the simplest setting: Jola, where dark walls and raw linen curtains shield patrons from the din outside. A Michelin-starred vegan restaurant is remarkable enough on its own, but I wasn’t expecting to discover one in Vienna – or to have it be amongst the best meals of my life. The 10-course surprise set menu transforms Austrian ingredients into tiny works of art, fermenting, foaming, and freeze-drying. Lion’s mane mushrooms rival foie gras, kohlrabi becomes tartare, and it all feels closer to alchemy than cooking. A rare treat: non-alcoholic pairings rival wine and Champagne, thanks to inventive mocktails and offerings like Kräutertraube herbal grape juice.
As dinner comes to a close, co-owner Larissa Andres hands me a menu to remember my meal – printed on a paper studded with plantable lettuce seeds. I exit and wander down the street, then up some steps, finding myself at a small, striking Gothic church. A sign tells me it’s Maria am Gestade, one of the oldest churches in the city (it can also be spotted in The Third Man and Before Sunrise). Proof that even as you seek out the fresh and new in Vienna, history is never hard to find.
The List
Stay
Opened in spring 2026, The Companion is a sleek boutique hotel that’s steps away from trams, metros, and Mariahilfer pedestrian shopping street. The quiet inner courtyard is a great spot for a buffet breakfast that includes smoked salmon, pancakes, and DIY mimosas.
Do
Head to the Kunsthistorisches Museum to tour the culinary works in “A Bite of Art,” from Giuseppe Arcimboldo’s seasonal portraits to the Renaissance-era Cellini Salt Cellar (which was once stolen in a 2003 heist).
Eat
For food on the go, grab a classic Viennese sausage at one of the stands in the city, like Alles Wurscht, or hit the city’s largest open-air food market, Naschmarkt.
Drink
Order like a local by requesting “Soda Zitron” lemon water, or ask for a “mélange” at a café and you’ll be treated to Vienna’s milder take on a cappuccino.
Bring Back
Skip the souvenir shop and pick up a small sculpture or painting from sprawling antiques shop Die Glasfabrik; iconic tubes of Estragonsenf Austrian mustard can be found at any grocery store and make great foodie gifts.