Cathy Senecal sets out on an adventurous road trip through Patagonia to discover the pristine lakes, hiking trails and local cuisine that make this Argentine region so unique.
A few cyclists jumped up from their group at Campo Base Hielo Azul and danced a quasi tango to the live band while the rest of us feasted on grilled asado on the deck overlooking Rio Azul, a river of liquid turquoise. Porteῆos, or holidayers from Buenos Aires, sang along and young girls twirled in their own dance world while we marvelled at the sight.
November is a beautiful time—it’s spring—to be in Argentina. Joyce and I met and travelled cheaply across Africa in our 20s and remain great friends. We’re well into our 60s now, and recently booked a car to traverse Patagonia’s Lake District. A vehicle gave us the freedom to stop at viewpoints, trailheads and shops in this mountainous area known for outdoor activities and vivid alpine towns.
San Martin de los Andes
On the edge of Lake Lácar, San Martin de los Andes is a quieter gem for adventure seekers. Roam the rosebush-laden streets and pick up fleece vests or any outdoor gear you need. Stop for berry-infused chocolates or ice cream at Mamusia.
Hike the four-kilometre trail starting at the end of Juez del Valle Street to Mirador Bandurrias for stunning views over Lago Lacar.
El Abasto, a restaurant with walls laden in cuckoo clocks and antique toys, features culinary specialties native to the Argentinian Patagonia. Try the deer a la cazadora and pair it with a ‘Mayuco’ Torrontes, a dry white wine with hints of honeysuckle and orange blossoms.
Route of the Seven Lakes
Take a leisurely day to drive north to south along the yellow Scotch broom lined road and soak in lush forests, snow capped peaks and serene lakes along this stunning 108-kilometre Route of the Seven Lakes between San Martin de los Andes and Villa La Angostura. Walk the one-hour trail to Cascada Nivinco near Lago Traful.
Continue to Bariloche, where Route 40 straightens and enters a dry desert-like terrain, a marked difference to the forested mountains further north.
San Carlos de Bariloche
San Carlos de Bariloche rises along the steep southern banks of Nahuel Huapi Lake. Wooden chalets abound, built by the Germans and Swiss who settled here in the early 20th century. Roam La Calle Mitre and the main square but save a day or two for nearby Llao Llao Park, a protected forest with giant beech and cypress trees.
Rent bikes from Circuito Chico Adventure and cycle the 26-kilometres route with stops at Bahia López Bay, Punto Panorámico, and Colonia Suiza, an historic Swiss colony known for its crafts and curanto, a traditional method of cooking meat and vegetables cooked underground.
Another day, drive and park at the main lot on your left as you enter the park. Hike the Arrayanes Trail past distinctive cinnamon-coloured trees and combine that with the trail to Tacul and Cerrito Llao Llao, the highest point, to make a loop back to the lot. Brazo Tristeza Lookout Point has one of the best lookouts over Nahuel Huapi Lake.
El Bolson
This laidback town is surrounded by valleys producing raspberries, mushrooms, truffles and hops. El Bolson’s artisan market in Plaza Pagano has up to 400 vendors on Saturday selling fabric, food and leather wares under the shadow of Cerro Piltriquitrón.
Here was where we chanced upon Campo Base Hielo Azul, our favourite hiking experience, despite a steep, rutted road to get there. The trail winds along the gorgeous Rio Azul past shady gazing spots. Post hike, garner a prime table on the river deck and take in the scene.
This story first appeared in the Spring 2025 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to sign up for your free digital copy.
