Louise Penny’s Guide to Quebec’s Eastern Townships
Where the bestselling mystery author finds inspiration, connection, and really good cheese.
When we caught up with Louise Penny, she had just returned from London, England — not to promote a book or attend a literary gala, but to retreat. “Oddly enough, I go to London to be quiet,” she says with a laugh. “This little village can be quite hectic.”
The village she’s referring to is Knowlton, Quebec, where she resides for most of the year. It’s also the real-life setting that inspired Three Pines, the fictional home of Chief Inspector Armand Gamache in her bestselling mystery novel series.
From lakeside trails and butter tarts to monastic cheeses and her own newly opened Three Pines Café, here are the spots she recommends to friends and family visiting the Eastern Townships.
Buzz Café, Knowlton
“First, you have to sleep in,” Penny says with a smile, when asked where she takes visiting friends. “Then we go to Buzz, which has fabulous coffee.”
This cozy Knowlton café is where she starts most mornings — especially when their homemade butter tarts are on offer. Penny praises the café’s owners for their support in helping her launch her own nearby spot, Three Pines Café. “The guys at Buzz were so helpful in getting the café up. They acted really as the midwives to the café, which was incredibly generous of someone who could consider the new café to be a competitor — but we’re not.”
Three Pines Café & Brome Lake Books, Knowlton
In 2024, Penny opened Three Pines Café, located beneath Knowlton’s independent bookstore, Bromelake Books. “The entire building came up for sale, and I was afraid that someone who bought it might want to convert it into apartments or something else and get rid of Brome Lake Books, which I couldn’t allow to happen.”
She set to work turning the lower floor into a café that reflects the fictional bistro from her novels, complete with fieldstone fireplaces, cushy armchairs, and a welcoming, homey feel. “I want people to bring your laptops, sit at one of the tables, and work all day if you want to — just make yourself at home,” she says.
The café is open to the public six days a week, but Mondays are reserved for a cause close to Penny’s heart. “It’s reserved for a local dementia support group. They do activities, have lunch, and spend time in a setting that feels like home. Or a club. Not something institutional.”
Manoir Hovey, North Hatley
“This hotel is one of my favourite spots in the region,” Penny says of the lakefront Relais & Châteaux property. “My husband and I were married here — well, our ceremony was at the little church overlooking North Hatley, and then our reception was at Manoir Hovey.”
She returns regularly for lunch on the terrace or a massage at the spa. “I always book the same thing: just a good 90-minute massage,” she says. “I love going to spas. I really think I’d like to die on a spa massage table,” she jokes. “What better way to go?”
Built in 1900 as a private summer home inspired by George Washington’s Mount Vernon estate, the manor is now one of Canada’s most charming boutique hotels — known for its top-rated restaurant, Le Hatley, a tranquil lakeside spa and pristine outdoor pool.
North Hatley General Store
Penny insists that this century-old store is worth a stop. “It inspired the general store in my books,” she says. “You can find everything there. Where else can you buy steaks and fresh produce, but also a hammer, rain boots — and even a coffin? You can buy a coffin there!”
From local maple syrup to hand tools and hardware, the shop remains a reliable (and delightfully quirky) community fixture. Stepping inside is like walking into a bygone era, so it’s no surprise it sparked a fictional counterpart in Three Pines.
La Rumeur Affamée, Sutton
This beloved épicerie and bakery in Sutton is a go-to for Penny. “There are pastries and breads of all kinds, sandwiches. It’s good for breakfast,” she says of the neighbourhood fixture, housed in a historic brick building. “This one inspired the bakery in my books. I really mined the entire area for inspiration.”
Head to La Rumeur Affamée for buttery croissants, crusty sourdough, and shelves stocked with Quebec cheeses and artisanal jams — perfect for assembling a picnic or cozy breakfast spread.
Coldbrook Path
Back home in Knowlton, Penny often walks her two golden retrievers, Muggins and Charlie, along the lake. “As the leaves turn, it’s just the most spectacular place to be.”
She’s referring to the Coldbrook Path, a scenic trail that winds past creeks, bridges, and wooded stretches before hugging the edge of Brome Lake. The 3.3-kilometre route is flat and peaceful, with benches and lookout points along the way. A longer network of trails connects to Foster and the Quilliams-Durrell Nature Reserve, offering even more quiet corners to explore year-round by foot, bike, snowshoe or ski.
