Alongside aviaries of parrots and some mischievous miniature goats, the highlight of the garden may be the sheer number of wild hummingbirds enjoying the blossom buffet. Despite seeing dozens, each one feels special, to me and to the birders who wander by, binoculars at the ready.

After lunch, we head to the coast to experience the national park’s watery side: a marine reserve. On a boat tour of the mangroves, we learn about how essential they are to the whole ecosystem, their roots protecting young fish from predators, and the islands themselves against natural disasters. Another little paradise is revealed as we drop anchor by a sandbar, high enough for us to stand in the water, a cup of rum punch or guava juice in hand. And beneath the sea, snorkel affixed, I find an underwater paradise full of angelfish and sea turtles.

A few days later, we move to Grande-Terre island. Flat, more populated, and brimming with golden beaches, it draws tourists in search of bigger hotels and bustling nightlife. Still in search of natural beauty, we wend our way along the coast, finding oases wherever we look. All beaches are public, and parking is quite “casual,” making it easy to stop on a whim. We pause for fresh coconut water one minute, then a swim in a hidden alcove the next. An unassuming roadside gallery, Kreol West Indies, turns out to be a revelation of Guadeloupe history and modern art.

When we check into a chic Les Voiles Bleues villa, the modern design and private chef dinner set a polished tone, but it’s the nightly frog song that becomes the most memorable amenity. When we visit five-star hotel La Toubana for lunch, the lobster tagliatelle and Sisley spa may be showstoppers, but it’s the sea view beyond the infinity pool that really takes my breath away. I know by now that, in Guadeloupe, luxury doesn’t just lie in the architecture or the menu. It is all around you: in the land, in the details, in the secret spots and natural beauty. You just need to know where to look.