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Meet the fifth generation Hawaiian family who are changing chocolate

April 1, 2024 No Comments

“I’d like to introduce you to a dear friend of mine. He’s very intelligent, he’s highly evolved, he’s handsome and delicious and very shy,” tour guide Alexandria Webster said mischievously.

“Friends, this is Theo.”

Partially expecting an eligible bachelor to come sauntering around the foliage of the 46-acre Lydgate Farms in Kapaa, Kaua’i, we quickly learn that Theo is short for Theobroma cacao. Alas, not a heartthrob, but a tropical evergreen tree known for its seeds that are used to produce cocoa powder and chocolate, whose scientific name means ‘food of the gods’ in Greek.

“This mood-elevating food was discovered by the ancient Aztecs and Mayans and back then they weren’t nibbling on Hershey,” she says. “They were consuming chocolate as a ceremonial health chocolate tonic beverage and it was fermented cocoa beans with some spices like cinnamon, cardamon, vanilla bean and some hot chilli peppers. If you were drinking it you were likely a monarch or a priest because you were consuming money. This is what they would trade as their currency.”

A superfood with super qualities

On a mission to change the way people think about chocolate, Webster says many visitors who come to the farm don’t know that chocolate is a fruit.

“It’s not just a fruit, it’s a superfood. Cacao is loaded with vitamins, trace minerals, hundreds of them, it’s one of the highest whole food sources of antioxidants that you can consume. It contains over forty mood-elevating properties,” she said.

Over the centuries, this beverage was used to treat anemia, mental fatigue, tuberculosis, fever, gout, kidney stones, and even poor sexual appetite. While most of the chocolate of today no longer has health benefits, top-of-the line fine chocolates do.

“It only takes one ounce of quality chocolate a day to reap the benefits of heart health, brain health,” she says. “It’s great for your blood circulation, it’s going to open up your vessels, it’s going to improve your mood, your alertness because of the theobromine in chocolate. So, if you eat chocolate every day, you will not only be happier, you’re going to die a little less. It’s shown to lower all-cause mortality.”

Regenerative, generational farming

Lydgate Farms is run by Will Lydgate, whose family legacy on Kaua’i can be traced back across five generations. “My great-grandfather William arrived in 1865 with a dream to help build the future of the Hawaiian Kingdom,” he says. “[I’ve] dedicated myself to building a team that grows the best cacao the world has ever tasted.”

Embodying the principle of Mālama ‘Āina, a Hawaiian word that means to care for and honour the land for future generations, sustainability is at the forefront of his efforts. In addition to producing single-estate chocolate and treats like chocolate-covered macadamia nuts, Lydgate Farms also offers vanilla beans and small-batched palm blossom honey.

“This beautiful tropical diverse farm is cultivated in a regenerative fashion, meaning we’re reinvesting in the soil for generations to come,” says Webster, adding that honey tasting is now part of the tour. “Cacao is an equatorial fruit — it only grows about 20° of the equator. That actually makes Hawai’i the only place in the continental US that can commercially grow chocolate.”

The farm has been recognized multiple times for producing some of the best chocolate in the world at international competitions. “Our farm represents the United States of America at the Cocoa of Excellence Awards in Paris. This is a world-wide chocolate competition every two years. Our humble farm is like the Jamaican bobsled team of the chocolate world, the underdogs,” she says, referencing the cult-favourite movie Cool Runnings. “Forty-six acres is a drop in the bucket compared to Ecuador, Peru, Costa Rica, they have thousands of acres and they’ve been doing it way longer than us. Small but mighty, we are now three consecutive runnings of the 50 best tasting chocolates in the whole world.”

From bean to bar

Based solely on the terroir of the farm, chocolate bars can elicit different flavour profiles from fruits to earthy tones. While there are only 14 original families of cacao, they cross pollinate to create thousands of varietals and result in the various coloured pods that range from yellow to vibrant red.

“Chocolate that’s fermented, that has distinctive flavour, that is packed with health benefits, and is not confectionery — meaning it’s heavily diluted with milk and sugar — didn’t even exist until 1997,” she says. “Isn’t that wild? It hasn’t been that long. People are just starting to learn about the art and the science that goes into making fine chocolate. Because Hawai’i is the only state where it can be commercially grown, we’re trying to transform Kaua’i into the Napa Valley of the chocolate world.”

At US$18 a pop, a chocolate bar from Lydgate Farms comes with a heftier price tag than your typical store-bought Cadbury bar. But when you consider the process involved, it should be a lot steeper. “If I crack this seed open and plant a seed today, it takes the tree at least four to five years to start bearing mature fruit. At that age, cocoa blossoms will start to bloom. They are so small that they are not pollinated by bees. They’re pollinated by the midge, which is a type of gnat,” she says. “Then it takes six to eight months for them to mature. A cacao tree can live 50 to 100 years.”

When it’s all said and done, she said the journey from bean to bar takes six to seven years. “Chocolate has more intricacies, more terroir, more flavour markers than wine,” she says.

This story first appeared in the Spring 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full story, click here.

Here’s what it’s like diving with whale sharks in La Paz, Mexico

March 22, 2024 No Comments

As the boat skimmed across the water, a massive shadow rose from the depths below.

“Shark! Shark!” Cristian yelled, and cut the engine.

Moments later, an ominous, black dorsal fin sliced through the surface. Seated on the edge of the boat, I fumbled for my mouthpiece and adjusted my snorkel mask. Then, taking a final shaky breath, I jumped.

At first, I saw nothing. On an overcast day in La Paz, Mexico, even at the surface the water was as cloudy as the sky above. The murkiness limited my visibility to a mere two feet.

But suddenly, the light shifted. And then I saw it.

Face to fin with the world's biggest fish

Like something out of a horror flick, in a matter of seconds, I was face to face with the largest fish in the world. Despite my love of the ocean, I have an irrevocable fear of deep water and everything that lurks below.

Growing up and spending my summers in Muskoka, even locking eyes with a large-mouthed bass or a Northern pike was enough to send me flailing wildly back to shore. For that reason alone, I’d never scuba dived or snorkelled. And on rare occasions when I ventured past my hips for a swim, I’d pictured this moment one thousand times; a lone, vicious shark appearing from the deep and ripping me to bloody shreds.

Underwater, time seemed to slow down while my heartbeat sped up. Frozen, I watched through my mask as a whale shark approximately 30 feet in length glided past, close enough that I could touch it. I didn’t scream and fill my breathing tube with saltwater and drown in a watery grave like I always imagined.

Instead, I silently kicked my flippers and swam side by side with this gentle, polka-dotted giant.

Whale sharks, despite their massive stature and wide mouths, are among the most docile of their species. Filter feeders, their cavernous mouths are lined with about 300 super tiny teeth, allowing for a generous scoop of plankton and small fish, which is their primary diet. They can live anywhere from 80 to 130 years, and have been around since the Jurassic period.

In La Paz, whale shark tours are available from October through May and can be arranged through a certified guide. Just two hours north of Los Cabos, La Paz is the capital of Baja California Sur, a Mexican state on the Baja California peninsula. Whale shark season in this area typically runs from the winter into early spring, making this an excellent time for a chance encounter.

Just as quickly as it’d appeared, after two minutes of our synchronized swim, the shark picked up speed and continued on its own trajectory into the sea.

Popping up to the surface, I was met with cheers from the rest of my dive group.

“That was amazing! Go again?” Christian yelled.

“I think I’m good,” I yelled back, and started a speedy front crawl back to the boat—because after what I just witnessed, who knows what else might lie beneath?

Inside the Italian town that gave us Parmesan cheese

March 18, 2024 No Comments

On a trip to the grocery store the other day, I found myself standing in the pasta aisle.

Stocked between the packages of linguine and penne, rigatoni and fusilli, and hovering above exorbitant rows of pre-mixed jars of pasta sauce, were an army of plastic shakers, crammed with Parmesan cheese.

Grabbing one, I rolled the container over and skimmed the ingredients: cellulose powder, potassium sorbate, calcium chloride, lipase, sorbic acid…the list went on, with a string of other words that sounded just as unnatural.

Don’t get me wrong; I’d grown up eating the Parmesan cheese I was now side-eyeing. After ladling chunky Bolognese sauce onto a plate of steaming, buttered spaghetti noodles, the cheese was the next best part, even though sometimes you’d have to whack the bottom to get the clumpy pieces to break apart. After a few vigorous shakes with roughly a quarter of the container dispersed, the pasta was ready to eat.

I never gave much thought to this cheese, which for some reason, could sit on a shelf with dried goods and not go bad, sometimes for more than a year. But after visiting a local caseificio, (known locally as a classic dairy farm) in Parma, Italy, I had a new appreciation for one of North America’s favourite cheeses.

A 1,000 year-old secret

Like the city’s name suggests, Parma is the birthplace of Parmigiano Reggiano, which is a protected designation of origin product, and somewhat of a national treasure to all of Italy.

For one thousand years, the production of Parmigiano Reggiano in Parma has followed an ancient recipe using just three simple ingredients: milk, salt and rennet—familiar and natural ingredients, I might add. With such simple origins, the final product is also lactose-free, high in protein and low in fat.

Originating in the Middle Ages, Benedictine monks were the first to start churning out large wheels of cheese with a long maturation period, using salt from the nearby Salsomaggiore salt mines and fresh cow’s milk.

Free from additives and preservatives, the longer the cheese aged, the more value it held.

According to the Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano, which was founded in 1901 in a bid to authenticate and differentiate between copycat Parmesan cheeses, the first evidence of cheese being used as commerce through trade dates back to a record of sale in the 12th century. From dowries to land agreements, cheese was used as a form of currency for hundreds of years.

The making of a perfect Parmesan

At Azienda Agricola Bertinelli, a producer of Parmigiano Reggiano, the process starts with roughly 550 litres of raw milk.

“Half of the milk is from the previous evening that is kept in large containers and half is from this morning,” said Giovanna Rosati, spokesperson for the Consortium of Parmigiano Reggiano. “In the morning, they push the container over the vat and the partially skimmed milk falls into the vat. They are not allowed to use a decreamer, because it would alter the milk. It’s a great example of a protected designation of origin (PDO) product, which is a product that owes its characteristics to its area of origin, where it is produced, not to some secret patented recipe,” she added.

From there, rennet (an enzyme found in the stomach of dairy cattle) is added and the milk begins to naturally curd. Next, it’s the job of the master cheesemaker to break the curd down and begin cooking the cheese. Using steam, the curds sink to the bottom of the vat and begin to form one giant mass. From start to finish, the process takes roughly 50 minutes, in which two twin wheels of cheese are created.

But the work doesn’t stop there. After cooking, each cheese is wrapped in a traditional linen cloth, then placed in a traditional mould, which gives it its classic wheel shape. Next, it’s transferred to a casein plate, which is outfitted with a sequential alphanumeric code that enables the cheese to be traced all the way back to its origins.

Holding up the stencil, Rosati looks almost like a WWE wrestler with the prized championship belt. “This engraves a few key details on the rind of the cheese,” she explains, noting it includes the code of the dairy producer where the cheese was made, as well as the month and year of production.

To be classified as a true Parmigiano Reggiano product, the cheese must be aged for a minimum of 12 months and undergo a rigorous quality control check, which includes a series of tapping tests to check for air pockets or tears.

And as for the cheese that doesn’t pass the test?

It’s cut up and sold as regular Parmesan—not to say that it isn’t outstanding, but without that stamp of approval, it’s no Parmigiano Reggiano.

This story first appeared in the Spring 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full version, click here to access a digital copy.

Luxury motels are trending—but should you book a stay?

March 13, 2024 No Comments

Boutique motels, with their modest room count, old school hospitality and all-around affordability are an ideal choice for travellers from all walks of life.

A few years ago, if you’d told me that I would be willingly spending my weekend at a motel, I probably would have laughed.

If countless road trips across Canada—and one too many reruns of Alfred Hitchcock’s 1960 horror flick, Psycho, taught me anything— it was that these places, whose flickering neon signs beckoned slyly from the parking lot, offered cheap rates for a reason.

It didn’t used to be like that, though. Motels as we know them started dotting North American roadways in the 1920s. Their origins were primitive at best, offering weary travellers a place to wash up and lay their heads.

The term “motel” was actually coined from the words “motor hotel” because these accommodations primarily targeted travelling motorists. After the Second World War, motels spiked in popularity, as more attractive features, like outdoor pools or kitchenettes were introduced. But by the 1960s, as chain hotels emerged, motel bookings tanked. While hotel brands continued to reinvent themselves to cater to an ever-changing clientele, motels remained entrenched in the past.

Now, decades later, motels have entered their renaissance era.

Motel mania

A far cry from the seedy, roadside fixtures with their often sleazy connotations featured in Hollywood cinema, boutique motels are having a moment. Often refurbished or completely gutted from the ground up, these new motels include thoughtful amenities, sought-after perks and contemporary decor that give select high-end hotels a run for their money.

From on-site wine bars and farm-to-table eateries, to full-fledged room service and generously stocked minibars, in-room spa treatments and on-site after-hours socials, these motels leave dingy stereotypes in the dust.

And so, on a Saturday afternoon, I found myself checking into The Beach Motel.

As a travel editor, I’ve lost count of the five-star hotels I’ve stayed at around the world. From private infinity plunge pools overlooking the Caribbean Sea, to signature scents in-room and even pillow menus, luxury properties are constantly coming up with new ways to make your stay feel extra special. But after stepping into the lobby and receiving a signature welcome drink and a hot towel during check-in, The Beach Motel immediately felt very on par to the level of hospitality I’ve come to expect from those high-end properties.

An elevated stay

Stepping into my suite, the elevated hospitality continued—there were chocolates on the bed, the heated floors had been turned on, and general manager, Amanda Deer, was eager to help answer any questions or attend to special requests.

Located on the shores of Southampton, one of Ontario’s best summer beach towns, the property is owned and operated by Dane and Samantha Buttenaar. With backgrounds in landscaping and real estate, the couple opened The Beach Motel in March 2022, successfully transforming the old Huron Haven motel that occupied the lot years before.

“I think since the shift to hotels, motels have been neglected and always been a ma and pa type establishment. Normally owner occupied, they were understaffed and not well kept,” said Dane Buttenaar, co-owner, The Beach Motel. “More recently, there’s been a shift from hotel accommodations to Airbnb and boutique properties that allow a more personal touch. We enjoyed embracing a guest-focused experience that allowed guests to not only have great service, but the chance to all interact and converse about travel and our beautiful town, Southampton.”

Home to 17 suites, each room is outfitted with either a king or queen-sized bed, a soaker tub and a rainfall shower and heated bathroom floors. Additional in-room, hotel-like amenities include a Nespresso machine stocked with a selection of coffees and teas, matching robes, a hair dryer, a mini fridge and even an ice bucket as well as wine and cocktail glasses.

The Beach Motel also houses a spa that offers massages and facials, a two-person sauna and an on-site restaurant, with a weekly farm-to-table menu executed by chef Carey McLellan. Inside the restaurant, which doubles as a lounge, guests can take their pick of complimentary board games and plenty of paperbacks, and on cooler nights, enjoy a drink by the cozy stone fireplace. It’s that smaller setting coupled by its communal spaces, that make you feel so much more connected to the property and the staff.

Of course, it’s important to also point out a few key differences between a high-end motel, such as The Beach Motel, and a true five-star hotel, too. With fewer rooms and a lower guest-to-staff ratio, you can expect an intimate atmosphere and a more personalized approach to service. However, many boutique motels don’t offer a 24-hour concierge; instead the front desk follows a dedicated hourly schedule. Parking may also be limited in busier months, and on-site restaurant hours close earlier than the restaurants in town.

But if it’s small town hospitality and a charming experience you’re after, give the humble motel another chance.

More motels to explore in Ontario

The Drake Motor Inn

Dubbed Prince Edward County’s most retro inn, The Drake Motor Inn is operated by the same owners of Toronto’s beloved Drake Hotel and Wellington’s Drake Devonshire. Wrapped in bright, funky colours, this pet-friendly motel features 12 guestrooms, all decked out with art and photography. Guests can enjoy plenty of perks, including complimentary use of Polaroid cameras for the perfect selfie, as well as a plethora of dining options at the Drake Devonshire.

thedrake.ca/drakemotorinn

Penny’s Motel

A laid back, old school vibe, minus the bubblegum pink bathtub awaits at Penny’s, located in Thornbury, Ont. on the coast of Georgian Bay. The swanky-looking motel offers 13 pet-friendly rooms, stocked with Malin + Goetz bath products, heated floors and rainfall showers. Locally-sourced food, including build-your-own s’mores abound at Apres, Penny’s snack bar. Other amenities include complimentary bikes, communal fire pits and heated patios.

pennysmotel.ca

Somewhere Inn

Outside of Ottawa in Calabogie, Somewhere Inn, opened in August 2021, breathes new life into an old motel from the 1970s. Its oversized, dog-friendly rooms that can sleep up to eight are TV-free (encouraging you to explore somewhere new, duh) and furnished with comfortable queen and king-sized beds. Nespresso machines, soaker tubs, Endy mattresses and fluffy duvets make this spot feel just like home for you and your furry friend for as long as you’d like.

somewhereinn.ca

Hiking Italy’s most heavenly route

November 27, 2023 No Comments

I’m sitting along a wooden table overlooking the dramatic cliffs of the Amalfi Coast, feasting on freshly-made goat cheese, deep-fried fritters, roasted tomatoes and eggplants, while sipping on homemade red wine with a group of fellow travellers from around the world, when an impromptu concert breaks out.

Nino Aversa, one of the guides leading my small hiking trip, has joined goatherd Antonio Milo, the owner of the charming stone-built farmhouse who prepared our meal, and the pair start singing and playing instruments, tapping their feet along to the rhythm.

Although Milo, who takes care of some 100 goats on site, only purchased the farmhouse several years ago, he comes from a long line of goatherds. Travelling daily to milk the goats and oversee the property, he was inspired to expand the venture to provide a true farm-to-table experience for guests. There’s no fixed price menu for hikers who stumble upon him, and he works with local hiking outfitters to feed their group tour bookings as a side business.

Although I don’t understand the words, as they’re serenading us to the tune of O Sarracino, an old Neapolitan folk song, I can’t help but think: I’m so glad I wound up here.

A mere few days earlier I was destined to be doing a day trip to the island of Capri instead, but due to rough waters, the journey was cancelled.

With a gap to fill in my agenda, I serendipitously found a guided tour with Sorrento Hiking to the famed Path of the Gods hiking route online and immediately locked it in. After a last minute pit-stop to a nearby mall to procure some appropriate hiking attire, I was on my way.

The Sentiero degli Dei, or Path of the Gods as it’s known in English, is a stunning trekking route along the Amalfi Coast that provides an amazing vantage point over the picturesque towns of Praiano and Positano.

Long before it became a popular hiking route, the trail was developed centuries ago as a mule-track to link the dairy farms with the towns along the coast. While there are several different options to hike along the Path of the Gods, their recommended route goes from Bomerano to Nocelle, which Aversa describes as “walking between heaven and earth.”

There are no guardrails along the route, just steep drops that almost induce vertigo if you stand too close to the edge.

In the car transfer over to the beginning of the trail from Sorrento that morning, my other passionate guide, Giovanni Gargiulo, inquired about what I’d heard about the difficulty of the path. Much to my dismay, when I shared that I’ve read it’s an easy-to-moderate hike, the German tourists in the backseat chimed in that everything they’ve read contradicted that.

“It’s definitely more of a challenging route,” Gargiulo confirmed, but then quickly reassured me that we could take it at our own pace.

For seven kilometres, the hike seemingly did a never-ending loop, complete with steep hills and descents. Gruelling at times, the frequent stops to admire the views from the top reminded me why I set out on this path in the first place.

By the time we reached the farmhouse, I was eager to enjoy a home-cooked spread and taste some well-deserved vino.

Driving back in the car Gargiulo asks how I enjoyed the hike. It wasn’t the path I’d originally set out on, but it’s one I’m glad I took.

This story first appeared in the Winter 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the digital issue, click here.

A tourist’s guide to loving Vietnam

November 24, 2023 No Comments

I had some initial apprehension upon learning that I’d be checking into a ‘junk boat’ for the next two nights. But upon seeing my home on the water, I quickly discovered that unlike the sound of the name, it’s actually not a shabby way to spend the night.

In fact, these sleeper ships, which range from basic bare bones boats to luxurious yachts, are the perfect gateway to experiencing Vietnam’s postcard-worthy Halong Bay, where 1,969 unusually shaped tree-covered limestone islands and islets jet out from the water.

After we stashed our luggage in our onboard rooms, tour guide John Tran began leading our small group of travellers on the Classic Vietnam itinerary with Canada-based tour operator, G Adventures. He describes it as a more “off-the-grid kayak excursion” to explore several remarkable caves along the UNESCO World Heritage site. With the job title of CEO — that’s Chief Experience Officer — he says he’s “in charge of facilitating life-changing experiences.”

Topping the list on today’s adventure are a visit to Trong Cave, where the ceiling is covered in stalactites and gives way to impressive views of the area’s famous towering limestone islands, and Trinh Nu Cave, which can best be described as an outer-worldly natural attraction. Although there were many other junk boats around our boat, we have these fascinating spots to ourselves.

The next morning, we set out bright and early after a hearty breakfast on a mission to climb the nearby Ti Top island. Although all the islands in Halong Bay are uninhabited, Ti Top features a pagoda at the top offering visitors a bird’s eye view of the surrounding area.

It’s a balmy 43°C out as we slowly conquer the 400 steps to reach the top, but the view surpassed my expectations. While I’d seen countless pictures taken from this exact spot, it didn’t prepare me for how vast the area is. Dripping in sweat and high on adrenaline for making it to the top, we take advantage of our own photo opportunities, before climbing down the steps for a refreshing reward: taking a swim at the sandy beach at the bottom of the island’s shore.

Coffee and culture collide in Hanoi

Earlier in the week, we headed to Hanoi Food Culture for a lesson in making a local specialty known as egg coffee. The restaurant is a G Values Fund project, an initiative where former G Adventures tour leaders can open their own businesses with low interest loans through the tour operator.

“These are funds that we set up for former CEOs. When they’re tired of guiding our tours but they still want to be involved with the company, they can apply for a low interest loan and start up a business of their own as local suppliers,” explains Jenna English, global purpose specialist for British Columbia & Northern Territories at G Adventures. After interacting with travellers day in and day out, she says CEOs often see the need for what kind of businesses are lacking in an area through their tour experiences.

While setting up the egg coffee demonstration, co-owner Lap Nguyen explains how he shifted gears to launch the restaurant. “I used to be a CEO, running tours on the road,” Nguyen says. “One day, my wife called me when I was in Siem Reap and said that she had cancer so I decided to quit the job and come back here.”

Through access to funding from the G Values Fund, Hanoi Food Culture was born. While we’re here for a coffee demonstration, the restaurant is open for lunch and dinner and hires students as its main staff. “The story of the egg coffee — it’s a Hanoi specialty. Hoi An and Saigon also have egg coffee, but they’re not the original, Hanoi is the place where the egg coffee came from. Egg in coffee, it seems very weird right?” he says, noting that the dish is indeed made with egg yolks. “It started over 100 years ago. If you go to any coffee shop and ask, ‘hey, what’s the recipe?’ They never want to share with you, but here we want to share it with you. It’s a million dollar business idea when you go home.”

This story first appeared in the Winter 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full version, click here.

Bahamas bound: life on the island beyond swimming with the pigs

November 20, 2023 No Comments

It’s my first day in Grand Bahama — the northernmost island of the Bahamas archipelago — and I’m already ignoring the age-old advice not to be lured into a complete stranger’s house.

Tempted by the promise of a home-cooked meal, I’m here to meet Colette Williams, a host with the Bahamas’ Ministry of Tourism’s People-to-People program, which is all about pairing travellers with a local ambassador for an authentic Bahamian experience.

“I think that’s what I was made to do — just to welcome people to our sun, sand and sea,” said Williams, who has been a host with the program for 19 years.

“I love people. I feel that if I can make one person have a memorable experience of the Bahamas, I would not have lived in vain, so my goal is to make sure everyone has a memorable experience of my home and to share the authentic experience of Grand Bahamian hospitality.”

Bringing authenticity back

In her backyard, Williams proceeds to set up an elaborate spread of stewed chicken, steamed fish, peas and rice, warm potato salad, baked macaroni and cheese and homemade iced tea. Today’s batch is infused with hibiscus. A yellow tablecloth spread across the dining table echoing the words Bahamas matches her blue dress, which also has the words Bahamas printed all over it.

Williams, who formerly worked in the hotel industry, said tourists rarely get a chance to see how Bahamians live.

“You can drive around the tourist route and never even see a house,” she said, noting that she enjoys sharing authentic Bahamian dishes with visitors. “When you get food in a hotel, it isn’t as authentic as home cooking. There’s no cooking like home cooking. You put a face to the food, there’s a story behind it.”

The immersive program pairs interested travellers with locally-vetted ambassadors who are matched based on various interests.

“It’s a program that’s been in place for more than 40 years,” Latia Duncombe, Director General of The Bahamas Ministry of Tourism, Investments & Aviation, told Offshore. “It’s a day in the life of a Bahamian. You’re moving away from the commercial, touristic components and you’re getting immersed into culture — whatever the local does is what the visitor does. It is true culture; it’s who we are as a people. It’s being prepared to share that authentic element of being a Bahamian, something you can’t find anywhere else in the world.”

Connecting with locals

Thirteen kilometres off the shore of Grand Bahama, I’ve connected with another Bahamian resident who is just as passionate about the destination and sharing his knowledge.

Although the Bahamas is known around the world as the place where tourists can come to swim with pigs, I’m here for a different kind of wild encounter — to meet the man known as the pied piper of stingrays.

From the moment Keith Cooper of West End Ecology Tours steps off the boat at Sandy Cay, a dozen stingrays with names like Stubby, Hard Wire, Lunatic, Scratch, Big Momma and Little Momma, instinctively swarm him.

“They’re touching my leg with their sensors because they know who I am, they remember who I am and because of the special bond I have with them. They trust me as much as I trust them,” he said, adding that stingrays often get a bad rep for being dangerous. “More than 9,000 visitors have participated in the Stingray Experience Tour and no one has ever been stung by a stingray… when the protocols are followed, guests will have one of the most unique encounters with marine life they have ever experienced.”

Before launching West End Ecology Tours, Cooper stumbled upon the stingrays by accident during a fishing expedition in 2006. “During the stopover, I discarded unused fishing bait over the side of the boat and within minutes the boat was surrounded by 15 stingrays feeding off the bottom of the shallow water where the boat was anchored at the beach,” he explained.

Since then, he’s returned to the spot to study the stingrays. In 2009, Cooper turned it into a business that now offers multiple tours, including snorkelling trips to underwater boat wrecks and reef fishing experiences. The Stingray Experience Tour remains his best-selling excursion.

According to Cooper, stingrays can display sentient behaviour and will show off their unique personalities. “There are two alpha female stingrays that dominate the fever. Big Momma is the most dominant member of the group and often displays her displeasure when too many rays come near me during the introduction and demonstration phase of the tour,” he said, noting she’ll use a decoy tactic to draw the other stingrays away so that she can consume the fish provided during the demonstration phase.

Another stingray, Hugger, got its name from the “hugs” she gives Cooper upon approach. “Guests watching from the boat are awestruck when they observe Hugger sitting in my lap, waiting patiently to receive a fish,” he said.

It’s Junkanoo time

On Nassau, New Providence, where major resorts like Atlantis, Goldwynn Resort & Residences, Sandals Royal Bahamian and Baha Mar are located, Arlene Nash Ferguson has made it her life’s mission to showcase the longstanding Bahamian celebration known as Junkanoo.

Based in her childhood home, the Educulture Junkanoo Museum is lined with colourful displays and costumes displaying the evolution of the cultural affair. A former British colony from 1629 to 1973, in the Bahamas, Junkanoo began roughly 200 years ago, when members of the African diaspora, including enslaved Bahamians, were granted three days to observe Christmas.

“They said, ‘let’s use these precious three days to recreate our festivals from home. It’s time to renew the spirit and just in case anybody tries to stop us, we will wait until the night and off we go,’” said Nash Ferguson, who has been taking part in Junkanoo since she was four years old.

Although the residents of the time were mixed by culture, she said the festivals wound up sharing several things in common, including instruments like goatskin drums, bells and elaborate costumes. “When you covered your face, it symbolized the presence of our ancestors,” Nash Ferguson said. “In these isolated islands, leaves, feathers, shells, seaweed, anything Indigenous becomes your decoration.”

Nash Ferguson shared that costumes continue to be made from paper as an original sign of defiance because in the time of slavery on the islands “by law people were not permitted to learn to read and write.” More than just a tradition, she said Bahamians are passionate about Junkanoo and work on their costumes all year long in their spare time once the theme for the following year’s festival is announced. Typically, the costumes are made using a cardboard base that’s covered in layers of tissue paper and often include elaborate headpieces.

“Two hundred years ago in the dark of the night at Christmas time, Bahamians said ‘Man, we survived, let’s celebrate life’ and they told their children never to forget,” she explained. “And ladies and gentlemen, right up to Christmas gone, we who are their children, we continue to do it. Today, we call it the Junkanoo festival — at 10 o’clock Christmas night we shut down Bay Street, hit the road dancing, still to the music of drums and bells.”

After outfitting my small group of travel companions with cowbells, whistles and drums, Nash Ferguson led us into a practice run of a Junkanoo simulation.

“The costumes are magnificent; we have worked months on them and we can’t wait to get out there to show them off. We’re going to out music and out dance every other group because we are going to win,” she said, before blowing her whistle loudly. “Line up, everybody ready? Who we is? Junkanoo! Bark like a dog. Woof, woof.”

The end result is a far cry from the organized rhythm of an actual parade, but we give it our all, joining in with off-beat drumming and what could only be described as tone deaf whistling. What we lack in musical ability, we make up in spirit and effort.

This story first appeared in the Winter 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full version, click here.

These are our best 7 gifts for travellers this year

November 13, 2023 No Comments

From stocking stuffers to thoughtful statement pieces, here are our top picks for gift giving this holiday season.

Life of the party

Throw the perfect holiday party with a little help from Eataly. Stuffed with high-quality ingredients like balsamic vinegar of Modena, essentials for cooking a restaurant-worthy risotto, decadent chocolate truffles and of course, a traditional panettone, the Entertaining All’Italiana gift box is the perfect present for the hostess with the mostest. — $189.90, shoptoronto.eataly.ca/

Messenger muse

For travellers on the go, Espe’s River messenger bag is a stylish solution. Female-owned and designed in Canada, all of Espe’s vegan leather pieces retail for under $100. The River messenger bag is available in black or tan and is outfitted with antique bronze hardware. Decked out with plenty of pockets and zipper closures, plus an adjustable shoulder strap, this unisex bag provides plenty of storage for securing your valuables while adding a smart and practical look to any outfit.

— $98, espe.ca

Winter wedge

Cougar’s Villa boot is a super lightweight, easy-to-wear wedge. The boot is available in four beautiful shades in sizes six through 11: cream, almond, cognac and black. Always waterproof, the boots will keep your feet snug up to -24 C, making them an ideal choice for both fall and winter. The polar plush lining ensures your feet stay dry and warm, while an anti-slip rubber outsole provides protection against wet or icy conditions.

— $200, cougarshoes.ca

Believe in Miracle

Sick of compromising on your skincare routine while on vacation because of size restrictions? This customized collection contains a four-week supply of five essential skincare products (cleanser, serum, toner, day cream and night cream) in 15 and 30mL containers. All of Miracle 10’s products are fragrance-free, paraben-free, not tested on animals and are made in Canada. Perfect for frequent jetsetters or for those simply looking to try out a new line, these collections conform to airline carry-on regulations and fit neatly into your purse or luggage.

— $145, miracle10.com

Suit up

Look smart season to season. Perfect to pair with pants or layered on top of a dress, the Veronica Beard Dickey Jacket is a versatile wardrobe staple for any occasion. Available in sizes 00 to 24, the jacket comes in black or navy with gold or silver statement buttons. Made of a cotton and polyester blend, the relaxed fit allows for comfort and flexibility, while the shoulder pads add a touch of drama.

—$780, veronicabeard.com

Sweet dreams

After a long day of travel, there’s nothing like a good night’s sleep. Henrie is a new, Vancouver-based, female-founded luxury pillow brand. Their signature adjustable pillow is filled with a blend of chopped memory foam and premium kapok, a natural fluffy fibre. Suitable for all bodies and sleeping positions, the Henrie pillow also features a removable, organic 450 thread count cotton outer cover that’s machine washable and each pillow comes with a storage bag to keep any excess pillow filling.

— $199, henrie.com

Set the table

Come home to a good meal — and dine in style! Meticulously crafted in Portugal, the charcoal grey dinnerware set by Canadian cookware company, Kilne, is a beautiful, 16-piece addition to your kitchen. Handmade of recycled clay, each piece is slightly imperfect, giving off a rustic chic feel. Dishwasher safe, each plate and bowl is also oven-safe up to 250°C and freezer safe down to -20°C.

— $326, kilne.com

Jetsetter java

Pilot Coffee Roasters’ holiday gift set is the perfect stocking stuffer for coffee-loving travellers—and let’s face it, most of us are! The set includes a 300 gram bag of their signature holiday blend roast (cranberry, cinnamon and chocolate notes) as well as a one-of-a-kind ceramic cup in collaboration with Paule Vezina, who runs a local artisanal ceramics studio, Poterie Vez, in Quebec.

— $60, pilotcoffeeroasters.com

Our guide to exploring the best of Rome by day and night

October 13, 2023 No Comments

With a history spanning 2,775 years, Rome is loaded with impressive ancient architecture seemingly around every corner. While the sights continue to lure in international visitors, Italy’s capital city is also known for its vibrant food scene, culture and nightlife.

“The Eternal City is just that – eternal and timeless in its appeal, as it continues to exude more than 2,000 years of history and culture,” guided tour operator Tauck’s product manager, Brenda MacKellar, who designs and oversees the tour operator’s itineraries in Italy, tells Offshore. “One can encounter ancient ruins in an amazing array of places — at the Roman Forum or one of the many other well-known archeological sites throughout the city, or in completely unexpected places – for example, underneath a church.”

Along with iconic spots, here are some surefire ways to ensure a memorable visit to The Eternal City.

PHOTO SPOTS

For a unique view of St. Peter’s Basilica, head to the Aventine Keyhole on the top of Aventine Hill. The unassuming door gives way to a perfectly framed view of the basilica’s dome. Many visitors come to take a photo through the keyhole, but it’s also possible to enter the gardens with a booked appointment through the Priory of Knights of Malta.

For those who keep track of places they’ve visited, the area and the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta, located down the road from the Spanish Steps, have rights of extraterritoriality. This means that those who visit either spot, along with the Vatican City during an Italian voyage, can add three destinations to their repertoire or set foot in three separate destinations in one day.

While in the Vatican, one of the best views of Rome is from the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. It’s €8 to climb to the top by foot or €10 for the elevator ride so we recommend splurging on the lift.

STROLL

To many first time visitors, Rome can seem like an enormous, sprawling city. However, it’s far more walkable than many realize.

“I love to take a leisurely passeggiata (stroll) through the city centre that takes in so many splendid sites, such as Piazza di Spagna, the Pantheon — perhaps the most well preserved of the city’s ancient buildings — or the Piazza del Popolo,” says MacKellar, who spent five years living in Rome. “Along the way, I try to step inside some of Rome’s wonderful churches, like San Luigi dei Francesi where you can see no less than three amazing Caravaggio paintings. In a very real sense, Rome is a living museum.”

STAY

For a remarkable stay, check into Palazzo Dama, a boutique property set in a former noble palace that once served as the residence of the Malaspinas, a family that hosted high-society gatherings for dignitaries, diplomats, aristocrats, and the cultural elite.

The elegant hotel features 29 guestrooms and suites with marble bathrooms, mere steps away from Piazza del Popolo and a short walk to other attractions like The Spanish Steps and The Trevi Fountain. From handwritten notes delivered during turndown service featuring the weather for the next day to a custom pillow menu, the hotel focuses on providing elevated service.

Stand out features include crystal chandeliers, a picturesque pool and secluded indoor and outdoor spots to chill and dine. Palazzo Dama is a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts’ L.V.X. portfolio of luxury properties known for providing exclusive service in unique settings. To escape the heat during a hot summer’s day, we recommend hitting the outdoor pool for an afternoon dip.

SUNSET

While Aperol Spritz has become a trendy drink of choice for cocktail hour in Canada, Italy’s bars boast many different varieties like the Limoncello Spritz and the Hugo Spritz (made with an elderflower liqueur such as St. Germain).

“After your passeggiata, take advantage of the city’s vibrant café culture and kick back with an aperitivo drink and light snack in the early evening,” says MacKellar. “It’s a wonderful opportunity to savour Rome’s charms, enjoy wonderful people watching, or simply relax before meeting friends for dinner in one of the city’s incredible restaurants.”

There are many hot spots to view the sunset for aperitivo hour such as the rooftop bar Terrace Les Etoiles and the Terrazza Borromini featuring spectacular 360 degree views over Rome, or Aroma, a one-star Michelin restaurant overlooking the Colosseum.

DINE

Overall, Italy is renowned for its food scene and Rome does not disappoint.

“Cacio e pepe is a symbol of Rome – like the Colosseum — it’s an institution. This typically Roman pasta dish goes back to ancient times,” says Irma Berlingieri, manager, product development at Air Canada Vacations. “In their sacks, local shepherds would carry cacio cheese made from sheep’s milk, pepper, and dried spaghetti.”

To try this classic pasta dish made with cheese and black pepper, Berlingieri suggests Settimo Roman Cuisine & Terrace, Osteria Zi’Umberto or Felice A Testaccio. Reservations are recommended as popular spots book up quickly.

“Italy’s capital also calls for carbonara, a deliciously egg-based pasta with pancetta or guanciale (cured pork jowl) and pecorino romano cheese,” she adds. “Save space for an order of the seasonal carciofo alla giudia, Rome’s famous deep-fried, Jewish-style artichokes, and snack on supplì, fried rice balls usually stuffed with tomato sauce, mozzarella and meat.”

BEAT THE CROWDS

Rome also boasts gorgeous Baroque architecture and amazing fountains. “Trevi Fountain is perhaps the best known, but a personal favourite is Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona,” says MacKellar.

Beat some of the crowds by visiting the fountains at night with a gelato or a wine in hand, instead of during the day when many cruise ships are in port. Gelato shops are open late so this treat isn’t just for daytime. The Nutella and Kinder flavours are hard to beat.

“In addition to delicious food, Rome has historical sites everywhere you turn,” adds Berlingieri. “Walking the small streets is the best way to find cafés, gelato shops or small typical cuisine restaurants around every corner. Taking advantage of a hop-on hop-off is the fastest way to cover a lot of ground exploring the surroundings at every stop.”

This article first appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the digital magazine.

Island hopping in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

September 29, 2023 No Comments

It’s breakfast time at Young Island Resort, a 13-acre private island just offshore of St. Vincent, and I’ve requested one of the house specialties: Creole French toast on homemade cinnamon bread.

“What we are using is our very famous rum — the St. Vincent strong rum — and it’s very lethal,” my server Donovan says with a smile as he pours the rum over the coconut shavings topping the French toast, lights a match, holds it close to the bread and stands on watch as the rum bursts into flames. “Voila!” To extinguish the fire, I drench the plate with a healthy pour of maple syrup. I then proceed to cut into it with anticipation. Beachside breakfast is served!

When it comes to the French toast at Young Island Resort, guests have plenty of options. While the homemade bread is a house specialty, they can opt for other breads, too, including homemade coconut bread or banana bread. “We’re known for our bread,” adds general manager, Bianca Porter. “When I’m on the road guests will tell me, ‘we always remember the bread!’”

As I found out, the Sunset Very Strong Rum used in the French toast is an overproof 84.5% alc/vol white rum which can only be consumed in destination as 70% ABV is the legal limit before it’s considered a flammable flight risk. Perhaps this is where Johnny Depp drew inspiration for the rum-loving pirate he played, Captain Jack Sparrow, in Pirates of the Caribbean—Young Island Resort, with its 29 unique beach and hillside cottages, actually housed the cast of the film.

At Petit St. Vincent, a 115-acre private island resort on the southern tip of the Grenadines, room service runs a little bit differently than at your standard Caribbean resorts. Instead of dialing down to the desk for my order, I take a menu form from my bedroom, fill it out and place the sheet of paper in the wooden mailbox slot at the end of the driveway to my secluded villa. Then, to signal the attention of the staff, I raise up the small yellow flag before heading back inside.

The next day at exactly the requested time of 8 a.m., one of the resort’s butlers rings the bell outside of my villa and sets up the eggs benedict feast on the private cliffside balcony. Each comes complete with a hammock, stocked mini bar and a jar of homemade cookies.

Butler service is included at Petit St. Vincent for no additional charge. There are 22 one-and-two bedroom cottages, each equipped with one red and one yellow flag, which communicate various service requests to staff.

“Red, when that’s raised up to the top, it means do not disturb; nobody comes to the cottage. The yellow flag is used for anything else, — breakfast, lunch and dinner — if you run out of wine again and want some more wine, and it can go up as many times during the day as you like,” explains Petit St. Vincent’s general manager, Matt Semark, who added that the system is also set up to deliver lunch at the various beach areas around the island.

Sand and sun

Naturally, I also test the effectiveness of this process during a leisurely afternoon soaking up the sun on a secluded stretch of beach. Shortly after filling out our lunch order, two servers approached my group’s chaises. They’re carrying our meals, along with a bottle of sauvignon blanc in a wine chiller and our ice cream preserved in chilled containers so it doesn’t melt by the time we get to dessert.

“The really cool thing about the Grenadines and St. Vincent is that we’re all very different in style. We all offer slightly different experiences,” Semark notes. “For us, it’s more about privacy, seclusion, space and hiding away. It’s a very personalized experience. We have a very long average length of stay and we have a 63 per cent return rate annually.”

Although the private island resort with 22 cottages appeals to celebrities like Ed Sheeran — who has posted about staying there so he’s allowed to talk about it — Semark explains that they’re very discreet about their clientele and provide top-notch service in an understated way.

“We’ve turned the Kardashians away five times. We want to stay low key,” he says. “We’re an unpretentious luxury.”

Described as a throwback to the Caribbean before mass tourism, the destination is the antithesis to other Caribbean countries pushing to grow their visitor arrivals.

From the purposeful lack of TVs in many hotel rooms across the destination, to an eye-catching ‘anti-chain’ food vendor with the words Bequia Pizza Hut hand painted across the front, the charm of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is its authentic old world Caribbean vibe.

“Our tagline is the Caribbean you’re looking for… we like to think of St. Vincent and the Grenadines as the Caribbean that’s completely untouched and unspoiled, with character and charm,” says Glenn Beache, CEO of the St. Vincent and The Grenadines Tourism Authority. “We’re not a mass tourism destination nor do we want to be. We want to maintain what makes us special.”

Made up of 32 islands and cays, the destination features diverse islands like Young Island, Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Union Island, Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent — as well as The Tobago Cays, a horseshoe shaped reef with five deserted islets.

“We like to keep it hidden. It’s a place we like to keep secret. We don’t talk about it too much,” explains Batu Erem, the general manager for Soho Beach House Canouan, which opened in 2021. “What we like to tailor, what we like to share is that this is your rustic, rugged Robin Crusoe-y type of experience that you’re not going to get in the Northern Leeward islands but it still exists here. It’s casual wellness. This is the place that you come to unplug, this is the place where you come to rejuvenate. There’s no TV in the rooms. This is that little haven and that’s why we like to keep it a secret. It’s like being back in time in the old Caribbean, and that’s what we try to preserve here.”

Soho Beach House Canouan is the only Caribbean outpost for Soho House, which typically operates on a membership-only basis. However, this boutique 40-bedroom property on Grand Bay Beach is open to non-member bookings as well. One of the perks of a stay here is that guests get to keep the travel sized skincare products in each room.

Similarly, at the largest of the Grenadine islands, Bequia Beach Hotel’s general manager Elisabeth Alleyne says she’s often rejected when asking guests for an online review to spread the word about the hotel.

“I asked a guest to give us a TripAdvisor review and they said ‘No. I don’t want people to find out about it,’” she says. “We want customers to come here and see the genuine part, that it can be a little rustic, we need to keep that. I think it’s the way the whole country is built – that it’s still very genuine. It’s more about the people than the flashy industry.”

The family-owned property is yet another that doesn’t have TVs in the room so that guests are focused on connecting with each other and the destination.

“Each island has its own charm; it’s a different vibe wherever you go,” sums up Marlon Joseph, hospitality officer, SVGTA. “But it’s all chill.”

This story first appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. For the full version, click here to read the digital magazine.