Santa Monica: California’s cool

Just after the sun comes up, surfers dash down the long, sandy stretch of beach and launch their boards into the water, as wave after wave of runners with tanned shoulders and coordinated outfits prance down the boardwalk behind.

Some push strollers, some hold dog leashes, and others throw up a peace sign and offer a smile to passersby. 

Located west of downtown Los Angeles, Santa Monica is a coastal city known for its famed Santa Monica Pier and Pacific Park, which features multiple oceanfront dining venues, midway games and riveting rides, including the first-ever solar-powered ferris wheel and a rollercoaster.

Home to 95,000 residents, the city is also a hub for health and wellness enthusiasts. Just south of the pier, you’ll find the Original Muscle Beach—an outdoor gym that opened in the 1930s that’s decked out with aerial ropes, parallel bars, travelling rings and swings.

Originally intended for use by acrobats, gymnasts and wrestlers, now, at any hour of the day, it’s not uncommon to see people young and old, doing everything from tight-rope walking to acro yoga, aerial rope tricks and meditation. In 1952, Muscle Beach Venice, a 20-minute walk from the Santa Monica Muscle Beach, was opened, and became the training grounds for some of the greatest bodybuilders of all time, including Arnold Schwarzenegger and Lou Ferrigno.

 “In Santa Monica, you can do whatever you want to do, and be whoever you want to be.”

Pedalling on my e-bike alongside my guide Erik Sines, from Bikes and Hikes LA, I watch as he effortlessly interacts with everyone we pass—the vendor selling artwork spread out on a picnic blanket; the man blasting Biggie from a stereo; the couple sitting on the grass as the sun sets over Santa Monica Beach.

“The thing I love most about Santa Monica is that you can wander down to the beach any time of day and leave with a handful of new friends,” he says, noting that he’s lived in several other places, but always finds his way back.

“In Santa Monica, you can do whatever you want to do, and be whoever you want to be,” he adds, right as a man on rollerblades wearing a cowboy hat saunters by singing opera and a woman with bright purple lipstick and a faux fur coat pushes two Pomeranian pups in a stroller.

Off the beach and the boardwalk, Santa Monica is also well-known for its restaurant and bar scene, as well as its shopping. Largely influenced by coastal Mediterranean and Mexican diets, Santa Monica is home to 14 Michelin-starred spots and countless other options ranging from mom n’ pop shops to food trucks, cafes and contemporary eateries that often specialize in seafood and seasonal farm-to-table dishes. Most establishments do happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m., and bars shut down by 2 a.m.

For those looking to spend, Santa Monica has three main shopping districts. The Downtown District is where you’ll find Third Street Promenade, an outdoor pedestrian-only area stretching three blocks that carries a mix of retail stores and dining.

At the southern end of the Promenade you’ll find Santa Monica Place, which is another outdoor shopping district, but home to higher end brands, as well as department stores like Nordstrom and Bloomington’s. In the city’s north end, Montana Ave. promises upscale shopping from luxury boutiques, restaurants, and specialty shops.


This article first appeared in the winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full story, click here. To subscribe to the print magazine, click here.

72 hours in Baja California Sur

Christine Roberti heads to the northwest Mexican state of Baja California Sur, stopping in the tiny coastal town of Todos Santos and the state capital of La Paz for grey whale watching, taco tasting and a whole lot of lazing around.

At night, I burrowed into the folds of the duvet on my king-sized bed and listened to the roar of the surf as it barrelled to shore across the Pacific. I left the sliding glass door to the terrace open, where a salty breeze made the gauzy curtains dance.

Tiny stars, my only night light, blinked through the inky black sky over the ocean, and when morning came, tangerine sunlight snuck across my pillow.

I resisted the urge to tear the covers off and slug back a cup of dark roast, like I do most days once 6:30 a.m. comes. In Baja California, as I learned over the course of three days, life is meant to be savoured slowly.

Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico, is a sleepy town tucked away on the Pacific coast of Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula. An hour’s drive from Los Cabos’ touristy Cabo San Lucas district, people come to Todos Santos to appreciate local art, enjoy top-notch gastronomy, surf the world-class breaks, and revel in gorgeous landscapes that include the overarching backdrop of the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range. In La Paz, visitors come for wild encounters with grey whales and whale sharks, beautiful beaches and vibrant nightlife.

DAY ONE

Start the day early, with a walking tour of Todos Santos, a designated pueblos magicos. Pueblos magicos (magic towns) are a designation provided by the Mexican government, awarded to select destinations for their exemplary showcase of authentic Mexican culture, be it through stunning architectural wonders, historical significance or natural beauty.

Todos Santos is one of roughly 180 pueblos magicos in Mexico, and it’s easy to see why.

Founded by missionaries in 1724, Todos Santos is a quiet town with a vibrant personality. It’s where artists, dreamers and surfers collide; rainbow-coloured bunting is strung through the streets, music lulls passerby from tiny shops selling everything from hand-fired ceramics to oil paintings, and a handful of restaurants promote fresh-caught seafood specialties on sidewalk menus. Stop for lunch at Oystera, a chic oyster bar with a phenomenal outdoor dining terrace, and arguably some of the best ceviche and limey margaritas in Southern Baja. 



DAY TWO

Drive an hour north and explore the capital city of La Paz for the day. Home to approximately a quarter of a million residents, there’s no shortage of things to do downtown, which is flanked by a bustling waterfront boardwalk known as the Malecón. The perfect meeting point, the Malecón is lined with bars, fusion restaurants and contemporary art sculptures.

Strolling through La Paz, you’re bound to get hungry. Embarking on your own taco tour is a great way to see the town’s culinary variety—and excellence. At Palapa Hermanos Gonzalez, you can’t go wrong with an authentic Baja fish taco—two meaty hunks of perfectly golden, battered fish are topped with chopped red onion, tomato and cilantro and drizzled with mayonnaise. Just down the street at Claro Fish Jr.’s, you can order anything from deep-fried coconut shrimp tacos to stingray.

DAY THREE

Grey whale migration peaks in Baja from January through March, but you can still count on seeing a pod from late December through April. Puerto Chale, a two-hour drive from La Paz, is a quiet fishing community on the Pacific Ocean, and the closest spot to the city for spotting grey whales. Curious and friendly, grey whales have been known to swim at surface-level directly beneath the tour boats, making for a breathtaking encounter.

Along the way, you can also spot sleeping sea lions, playful sea otters and migratory birds. For another unique aquatic experience, snorkel with whale sharks in the El Mogote peninsula, which is 15 minutes from the Bay of La Paz. Despite their size (some reach 60 ft. in length), these gentle, toothless giants are actually quite timid, and neither a shark, nor a whale—they’re actually a fish! 

This story first appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the full story. Click here to subscribe to the print magazine.

10 indulgent ways to see, taste and explore Antigua and Barbuda

Antigua, the most populated island of the country Antigua and Barbuda, is beautifully located between the Caribbean Sea and the Atlantic Ocean. The country boasts of 365 beaches making it oh-so-easy to snorkel, sail and while away the hours. Plus, you can learn about the historic sugar plantations, dance to steel drum bands and indulge with refreshing rum punch. 

Restaurant Week

This year, everything from the island’s famous goat water (aka soup) to handmade coconut ice cream was available at the historic Dow’s Hill launch event, overlooking the picturesque English Harbour.

Celebrity chefs, including Angel Barreto, Digby Stridiron and Shorne Benjamin did mouth-watering demos. And more than 60 restaurants featured prix-fixe menus. Get a taste of the action at next year’s Restaurant Week, running May 4 – 18, 2025.

Betty's Hope

Take a look at Antigua’s past by visiting one of the country’s original sugar plantations, which was founded around 1650. Betty’s Hope was one of about 190 plantations on the island that relied on slave labour to produce the sweetener.

Even after emancipation in 1834, many labourers continued to work there for low pay.

Cheers to Carnival

Known locally as a marker of summer, from the last week of July to the first Tuesday of August, Antigua is taken over by the sound of steel drums and colourful costumes.

Carnival is an historic celebration that dates back to Aug 1, 1834 when slavery was abolished on the island. The vibrant event showcases the island’s rich cultural heritage through lively parades, music and dance, attracting visitors from around the world.

Humble and Free Wadali

Get a different perspective on Antigua by visiting this Rasta development, which has wonderful views of the countryside.

The community promotes farm-to-table dining, as well as eco tours, and grows melons, pumpkins and beets alongside cannabis. You can listen to drumming, taste their cooking and learn about one of the first estates where Antigua’s slaves were emancipated.

Get cooking

Learn how to master Caribbean flavours with Chef Nicole Arthurton Dennis.

Her small group classes take place in her beautiful home, overlooking the capital of St. John’s and the harbour. Think plantain chips with salsa, jerk chicken, banana fritters, red beans and rice, garden salad and coconut custard tart.

Swim with stingrays

Stingray City offers you a chance to snorkel with rays in the open sea.

If you’re brave, the tour operator’s experts will show you how to gently hold one and feed it squid. The clear, cerulean water is breathtaking, plus, you’ll see lots of tropical fish.

Rise and dine

IIf you want to catch the action at the Saturday market in St. John’s, aim to get there around 6 a.m.

That’s when you’ll find the freshest fish, an abundance of fruit and vegetables – think dasheen tubers, breadfruit and mangoes – and even some arts and crafts to boot. A pared down version of the market is also held on weekdays.

Try the rum punch

A favourite spirit on the island, rum has been made in Antigua since the 17th century. And thanks to the abundance of fresh fruit there are lots of yummy punch drinks to keep you cool.

Drop by Ana’s on the Beach, Darkwood Beach Bar or Pillars Restaurant to quench your thirst. And if you want to learn more, you can try a tasting at Antigua Rum Experience.

Enjoy sweet treats

The island has a history of growing cocoa and it’s still a major export. You can treat your taste buds to artisanal, organic chocolates at the House of Chocolate. Dig a little deeper and learn about the role slaved labour played in making the area a major producer.

BBQ and boogie

Sunday nights from 4 to 10 p.m. are a bit of an island tradition at Shirley’s Heights. The restored military lookout and gun battery offers revellers an amazing view of English Harbour, tasty food and steel drum bands to keep you dancing.

For more information, or to plan your own adventure, go to visitantiguabarbuda.com.

All-day pampering awaits at the Elora Mill Hotel & Spa

Suspended on limestone cliffs above the rushing rapids of the gorge below, the Elora Mill Hotel & Spa provides an indulging, five-star retreat in the heart of nature.

Walking through the streets of Elora, you’d be forgiven for thinking you might be anywhere else but a small, Ontario town. All along Metcalfe and surrounding streets, stores housed in 19th century limestone sell everything from handmade silk lampshades spun in art deco designs, to locally-made home furnishings and used books.

Like any good small town, there are also a handful of comfortable cafes and ice cream shops selling those nostalgic Moosetracks and Bubblegum scoops.

But the lifeblood of the town is the Elora Mill Hotel & Spa, a five-star, luxury boutique property with a fine-dining restaurant and full-service spa that’s perched above the rushing waters of the Elora Gorge.

About the Elora Mill

Opened in 2018 under the Pearle Hospitality Group, the Elora Mill has a long and colourful history that dates back nearly 200 years, to 1832 when William Gilkison, a Scottish naval captain, purchased 14,000 acres of land and settled the town on the banks of the Grand River. In 1833, Gilkison constructed a sawmill which served the town until the early 1900s.

Over the years, the property also had stints as a distillery (the site of the hotel’s present-day kitchen), as well as a flour mill that ceased operations in 1974, when it was converted to the Elora Mill Inn. Following the old inn’s closure in 2010, a $27 million renovation project saw the property reopen eight years later in June 2018 as the four-storey Elora Mill Hotel & Spa, turning the tiny town of Elora into a full-fledged luxury destination flanked year round by guests from all over the world.

Farm-to-table dining

On the first floor of the hotel, you’ll find the two-storey restaurant which features floor-to-ceiling windows that overlook the rapids. Using a farm-to-table dining approach that extends to all menus, highlights include the lobster and smoked halibut agnolotti with seasonal hand-picked chanterelles and the field greens salad with pan roasted chicken, made using locally-sourced produce from the Pearle Farm.

Down below, guests can visit the restaurant’s recently opened wine cellar, which is home to more than 4,000 bottles. The Elora Mill’s team of friendly in-house sommeliers can also provide expert pairing advice on any dish.

Rooms with a view

Working with the original footprint of the mill, luxury interior designer Lori Morris was picked to decorate all 30 rooms in three styles—rustic, modern and French. There are eight room categories to choose from, with no two designed identically. Soft neutrals blend harmoniously with the natural limestone walls and exposed wooden beams. Lavish touches create an atmosphere so indulging, you find yourself longing for just one more day on a weekend getaway. 

Throw open the balcony doors of the Terrace Suite and gaze at the rushing rapids of the Elora Gorge below. Additional in-room highlights include a king-sized bed, a seasonal indoor wood burning fireplace perfect for autumn nights, and a Nespresso coffee machine. At the end of the evening, retreat to your terrace and lounge by the outdoor fire with a glass of wine, or one of the afte rdinner cocktails that can be ordered to your room—we recommend the Campfire Nightcap, made with a smoky Sombra mezcal, sweet Amaro Montenegro, Crème de Cacao, cold brew espresso and agave. Or, slip off your oversized plush robe and into the soaker tub.

Elements of relaxation continue throughout the hotel, starting on the first floor at the spa, where cliffside views immediately transport you away from the stresses of daily life. Recently, Elora Mill introduced a series of day packages which include the Daybreak ($350 from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m.), with a complimentary breakfast; the Midday ($425 from 12 to 5 p.m.) which includes lunch, and Seize the Day ($750 from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m.), which is perfect for those looking for a full day of pampering.

Along with a signature body treatment, highlights of all three packages include use of the Nordic dry sauna, eucalyptus steam room, hot tub, and heated rooftop pool, which stays open year round. Cocktails, wine by the glass and small bites, like warm marinated olives, can be enjoyed pool side or in the relaxation lounge.

For rates and availability, visit eloramill.ca.

 

This article first appeared in the Fall 2024 issue of OFFSHORE travel Magazine. Click here to subscribe to your free copy.

Fantastic fjords: a journey through Greenland with National Geographic-Lindblad Expeditions

Waking up every morning onboard the National Geographic Resolution was always something pleasantly different. It might have been the sounds of the ice cracking against the ship, the midnight sun peeking through my window, or the captain announcing whale sightings. 

Once the blinds were open, I was presented with a view of Greenland that felt both natural and yet so unfamiliar to a first-timer in the Arctic.

With no inside rooms, every guest enjoys unrestricted views of the region. Suites, in a testament to Lindblad’s partnership with National Geographic, are adorned with National Geographic atlases, magazines, and maps. These spacious accommodations also feature large windows or balconies, and each suite is furnished with modern amenities, including a private bathroom, ample storage, and comfortable bedding. Guests can also enjoy exclusive services such as butler service, personalized concierge assistance, and access to private lounges, ensuring an exceptional and memorable expedition experience.

Discovering the Arctic

The 71-cabin National Geographic Resolution, which sails under luxury exploration cruise company Lindblad Expeditions, is like no other expedition ship in the water. You might find yourself in the Science Hub or in the Ice Lounge, listening to one of the many National Geographic experts on board giving a lecture or obliging questions about the daunting terrain.

I quickly settled into a routine: after a day exploring the natural beauty or visiting an Inuit settlement on the ship’s Zodiac boats, I would head to the Ice Lounge. There, I eagerly awaited National Geographic diver Pat Webster. One of the two divers accompanying us, Pat showed us videos of the diverse marine life encountered that day in the frigid Arctic waters. It was like watching our very own National Geographic documentary unfold before us in real time, and we were the stars of the plot.

After dinner, we typically found ourselves, cocktail in hand, enjoying the open Bridge, a section of the ship that offers a state-of-the-art command center with panoramic views, providing an unparalleled vantage point for navigating through some of the world’s most remote and breathtaking regions. There, we would see the captain, ice navigator, or first officers piloting the ship through the razor sharp ice fields and uncharted fjords in real-time. Initially, I felt like I was somewhere I shouldn’t be, but that feeling quickly faded as they engaged us, showed us the new equipment, and even let us sit in the captain’s chair.

Guests crammed the Bridge upon a whale sighting. Reaching for their iPhones or DSLR cameras, it wasn’t uncommon for one of the National Geographic photographers would graciously offer tips on getting the perfect shot with whatever equipment we had. Phil Schermeister, an award-winning photographer and published author of multiple photography books, spent many moments lining up a magazine-worthy shot on my own phone.

As photographers and conservationists in the field, the passion they have for their line of work is contagious, and sure enough, after years of wanting to try my hand at using a DSLR, I found myself photographing everything from sled dogs to icebergs with a newfound confidence. 

The expedition begins

Departing Kangerlussuaq we started our expedition. On either side of the ship, landscapes carved by glaciers adored the 190-kilometre fjord bearing the same name. We landed by Zodiac at an old whaling station, warmly met by our Greenlandic hosts. 

Our tour began in Dog Town, observing sled dogs and their handlers. A sled trainer explained the dogs’ role in Arctic living while playful puppies distracted us. Later, we tasted a  traditional muskox soup that rivaled my family’s own recipe of beef and barley version back home. In local shops, natural materials obtained through hunting had been carved by hands and heritage, their stories imparted by shopkeepers.

In the heart of Uummanaq, a prominent mountain stood overlooking the community. The ascent offered panoramic views of the town below, where houses painted bright shades of blue, yellow and red lined the coast – a nod to Greenland’s connection to Denmark. An afternoon excursion led us to Quilakitsoq’s archaeological site dating back to 1475 whose significance was shared by Lars, a local Greenlander Lindblad had hired for this particular voyage. He engaged us with Inuit storytelling and provided cultural insights into the artifacts we encountered.

The ship navigated the icy Davis Strait towards the UNESCO-sheltered Ilulissat Icefjord. Here, we found local fishermen on the other end of our sailors hold, a symbolic nod to the strong partnership Lindblad maintains with the communities its itineraries visit. The fishermen guided us amongst massive icebergs and tranquil waters. 

In Ilulissat, a hike took us into the icefjord where the view of green valleys filled with white flowers gave way to ice expanses—a juxtaposition of nature. A visit to the Ilulissat Icefjordscenter revealed historical scenes and arctic wildlife that were encased in clear sculptures resembling ice, a contemplative preservation of their way of life.

Upon my arrival back in Toronto, I switched my phone’s data back on for the first time since I had left and was immediately flooded with notifications, which made me miss the quietness of the Arctic. 

Yet unexpectedly, the polar expedition had left an imprint on me that I didn’t foresee—I noticed myself walking a little more lightly, paying closer attention to my surroundings, and feeling an increased responsibility towards environmental stewardship. It made me wonder if this was National Geographic’s purpose in partnering with Lindblad. 

Was it to reignite the curiosity we once felt as children watching their shows, and to instill a deeper sense of stewardship towards nature and each other?

—Story by Mitchell McClung



OFFSHORE Travel Magazine’s fall issue is out now!

OFFSHORE Travel Magazine, the luxury consumer publication from Baxter Media, has released its fall 2024 issue.

Distributed in print to subscribers via the Globe and Mail, OFFSHORE features the best in travel writing, from new hotel openings and luxury stays, to mini city guides and one-of-a-kind adventures in sought-after destinations around the world.

 is about purposeful travel encompassing everything from generational journeys to adventures both big and small. Embark on this journey with us, as we explore new places and create lasting memories.

In our latest issue, we’ve introduced a new column that highlights some of the best high-end properties to stay at, closer to home. Recently, we checked into the Elora Mill Hotel & Spa in the small town of Elora, Ontario. A luxurious escape just under two hours from Toronto, the property is renowned for its stunning riverside location, elegantly restored historic architecture, and indulgent treatments that provide a serene retreat from the everyday hustle, including a newly-introduced all-day spa package.

At the top of the world, our co-publisher finds himself on an eight-day trip through Western Greenland aboard the National Geographic Resolution in partnership with exploration company Lindblad Expeditions. The Arctic offers an unparalleled adventure, combining breathtaking fjord landscapes with opportunities to explore remote Inuit communities and encounter diverse wildlife, from whale watching to meeting sled dog pups. 

The latest issue of OFFSHORE is brimming with stories from around the world, from warm Caribbean climates to chilly Arctic waters.

Click HERE to read the digital version. To subscribe to a print copy of the magazine, click here.

London calling: A night at Westminster’s five-star boutique hotel, The Londoner

It’s not usually the loo that’s the first thing that catches my attention when entering a hotel room, but this one quite literally took me by surprise.

Before slipping into the plush robe and slippers that I hoped were waiting for me in the closet, I grabbed my phone to capture a video of my spacious quarters at The Londoner to share on Instagram — as one does to be the envy of those stuck at work back home — while the bed was still in pristine condition. As I stepped backwards to get a better angle of the soaking tub, my movement triggered the sensor-activated toilet lid behind me. I turned my gaze and was impressed to find that this wasn’t an average run-of-the-mills toilet but a premium self cleaning Japanese Toto Washlet with a heated seat. What luxury! 

From a secret whisky room to a spa that’s four levels below Leicester Square, there’s even more to The Londoner than meets the eye.

For peat's sake

Home to 350 hotel rooms and suites, The Londoner offers a mix of bars and restaurants that are open to the public, as well as spaces that are exclusive for hotel guests only. As a scotch aficionado — the peatier the better in my books — I was immediately drawn to The Whisky Room.

“Hidden behind a secret door in our guest-only residence is The Whisky Room, which is a velvet-lined parlour boasting some of the rarest and most exclusive whiskies you can find in London,” explains Patrick Katzenberg, the hotel’s general manager. “Our collection includes over 50 bottles spanning the world, dating back to pre-prohibition America (1903), from distilleries that closed many years ago, and from batches of less than a thousand ever made. Some of our favourites are the Karuizawa 42-Year-Old and the Glenfiddich Time Re:Imagined Series.”

Once you locate the secret entrance through the powder room, you can even stash a private bottle that’s kept in a secure spot until your next visit. Looking for something special? The Londoner is the only hotel in the world to house Glenfiddich’s Time Re:Imagined collection featuring three luxury single malts developed over 30, 40 and 50 years.

Deep relaxation starts here

Towering over London with views of Big Ben and the London Eye, The Londoner rises up eight floors from Leicester Square. But what’s not visible from the exterior is that it also transcends six floors down. It’s here, four levels below the bustling streets, where you find the hotel’s serene pool and spa area. 

“The Retreat is one of our most beautiful spaces, which is an entire floor dedicated to wellness experiences,” says Katzenberg. “We have an aquamarine pool and hydropool surrounded by private cabanas, a sauna, steam room, hair salon and gentlemen’s grooming parlour.” Services include deep tissue and relaxation massages as well as a CBD hibernation massage.

“For spa treatments, we work with luxury, sustainable brands to provide intensely rejuvenating experiences, from a gold hydralifting facial to a pre-natal massage,” he says. “The Retreat is also home to a stunning fully-equipped gym, yoga studio and Refuel bar, with serves delicious superfoods and smoothies perfect for a post-workout boost.”

The epitome of luxury

Conceived as a “super boutique hotel,” The Londoner is known for its lavish rooms and suites, but the crème de la crème is the luxurious Tower Penthouse, a two-storey suite complete with a Calcutta Tucci marble bar and unforgettable views of the skyline. 

“It epitomizes luxury living in the heart of London. What sets The Tower Penthouse apart is the little additions that make a stay truly memorable,” he adds. “These include a complimentary beverage trolley tailored to our guests’ preferences, as well as a visit from our mixologist to create any concoctions you may desire. In addition, a Fortnum & Mason luxury hamper, Olivia von Halle pyjamas, curated itinerary of unique cultural experiences and much more await in this spectacular suite.”


This story first appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To subscribe to the magazine, click here

Beyond the Blue Hole: Exploring Ambergris Caye, Belize

Forget what you saw in Steven Spielberg’s cult thriller Jaws. Just because you’re going to a place with a daunting name like Shark Ray Alley doesn’t mean you shouldn’t get into the water upon arrival. Even though there will be sharks…lots of sharks. 

After an unforgettable time spotting stingrays, turtles and all kinds of tropical fish while snorkelling along a reef off the coast of Ambergris Caye, we arrived at our next destination — Shark Ray Alley — classified as Zone D of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve. “You can go in if you dare,” my guide from Xsite Belize Sailing & Adventures said with a mischievous smile, gearing up to follow me in. 

“Aren’t these nurse sharks?” I asked. “I heard they’re docile creatures,” I stated confidently — more so to reassure myself. From the surface I could only see a few nurse sharks circling around the catamaran but after jumping into the water everything truly came to life.

Through my goggles, I could see dozens of nurse sharks and hundreds of fish swimming around me.

“It’s very safe. The crew guides you while you are here. We do it every day,” reassured Tammy Lemus, the owner of Xsite Belize Sailing & Adventures. They may be dubbed harmless, but as I made eye contact with several of these creatures that average 7.5-9 ft. in length up close, I still felt a bit of a lump forming in my throat. 

“Shark Ray Alley, part of the Hol Chan Marine Reserve, became famous in the 1990s. Historically, this 1,280-acre protected region is where local fishermen cleaned their catches, attracting a variety of marine life, particularly nurse sharks and southern stingrays,” said Anthony Mahler, Belize’s minister of tourism and diaspora relations. “Over time, these animals grew accustomed to the presence of humans and began to frequent the area, creating a unique opportunity for close encounters.”

Hanging around Ambergris Caye

While Ambergris Caye is often thought of as an ideal spot for day trips to the Blue Hole, there’s so much more to see and experience on this laidback island. Here, part of the charm is getting around in a golf cart, the primary mode of transportation.

The destination offers the perfect mix of a relaxed beach getaway with nightlife and delicious dining.

To get a taste of some of the best dishes in San Pedro Town, embark on a walking foodie tour with Belize Food Tours. Take the tour early on in your visit so you gain a list of delicious places you can come back to during your stay.

The stops are very diverse from Elvi’s Kitchen, a popular tourist spot named after Elvi Staines, which has flourished from humble beginnings as a take-out stand for burgers in 1974, to off-the-beaten path places serving up delicious fresh ceviche and Pupuseria Salvadoreno, an authentic spot for Salvadorian pupusas.

Two ways to stay

GRAND CARIBE BELIZE

As you pull into the hotel area, a road sign reads Welcome to Caribeville, Population: happy. This sets the tone for Grand Caribe Belize, a beachfront property with six pools and a swim up bar offering luxury, condo-style accommodations.

As suites come complete with kitchens, this is a great option for long stays. The hotel is within walking distance to the Truck Stop, an outdoor eatery with food trucks and a great vibe. A tasty onsite option is the rooftop Rain restaurant. For breakfast, we recommend trying the Belizean specialty known as fry jacks as a side.

ALAIA BELIZE

For the ultimate in luxury, Alaia Belize is the first true four-diamond resort on the island. The boutique resort opened in 2021 and spans over 20 acres with 155 luxurious guest rooms and suites, including two and three-bedroom villas.

For those who like to dive, Alaia Belize allows guests to receive a PADI certification onsite. The resort boasts the country’s first-ever suspended rooftop pool and lounge. The property is part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection.


This story first appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To subscribe to the print magazine, click here

What to see, where to stay and what to eat in Bangkok, Thailand

My first night in Bangkok, I felt a bit like Leonardo DiCaprio’s backpacker character, Richard, in the hit thriller The Beach.

As non-stop neon lights glared and English karaoke hits blared; tuk-tuks and taxis zipped and zoomed and tourists crowded the sidewalks down below, clamouring for deep-fried pork skins, chicken and even banana, I sat cross-legged on the bed in my hotel room, memorizing the details of my trip’s itinerary.

Most first-time travellers to Thailand head south after landing in Bangkok and start in the Phi Phi Islands, hitting up DiCaprio’s fictional hideaway inspired by the real-life Maya Bay, before ferrying over to Phuket, the country’s largest island covered in rainforest canopies and surrounded by warm waters so blue they look fake.

But I was heading west for Kachanaburi, the first town of several I’d be seeing in a span of eight days with G Adventures, as part of the tour operator’s National Geographic Journeys collection.

From trains to planes, rivers to waterfalls and serene Buddhist temples to bustling street markets, after starting out in the capital city of Bangkok, the itinerary encompassed visits to some of Thailand’s most popular cities, like Chiang Mai in the north, as well as lesser-known parts, like the ancient city of Ayutthaya, the former capital of the Kingdom of Siam and home to the UNESCO-designated Ayutthaya Historical Park.

As a National Geographic Journey tour, accommodations included four and five-star luxury properties and transportation (with luggage handling) via a private, air-conditioned vehicle.

From Bangkok to Chiang Mai and back, here are some of the best things to see, do and eat—as well as the best places to stay—on your next trip to Thailand.

STAY

SIRIPANNA VILLA RESORT & SPA

A five-star hotel located in Chiang Mai, rates range between $67 a night for a deluxe room to $160 for the royal villa. The outdoor pool, designed to mimic the ancient Mae Ping river in the centre of the lost city of Wiang Kum Kam, is the star of the resort, framed by fragrant frangipani trees. The newly-opened Divana Spa is another highlight, with a series of signature Thai massages and treatments, including discounted morning specials for early risers.

SHANGHAI MANSION

Tucked away in Bangkok’s Chinatown neighbourhood, Shanghai Mansion is a four-star, luxury boutique property that’s located close to the famous Khao San Road, and steps from the new MRT station, Wat Mangkon.

The colourful rooms are decked out in nostalgic Chinese decor—think paper lanterns and silk throw pillows—while the lively lobby expands to the hotel’s Red Rose Restaurant, which spotlights some of the city’s best Chinese plates—including a cannabis-focused menu—and stunning cocktails in an open-air setting.

ROYAL RIVER KWAI RESORT

Set along the banks of the River Kwai, Royal River Kwai Resort is framed by a series of beautiful gardens and stone statues depicting Thai relics. Go for a quiet morning swim at the resort’s spacious pool, or head to the Rantee spa for a hot stone massage.

The hotel’s restaurant, also located on the river’s edge, is the perfect spot to catch a stunning sunset during dinner, or wind down with a glass of wine.

EAT

The signature dish of Chiang Mai, Khao Soi is a must for anyone visiting this part of Thailand—in fact, it can be quite tricky to find it once you leave the city. Khao soi is a coconut curry soup made with fresh egg noodles and garnished with freshly-chopped shallots, green onion, pickled Chinese cabbage, crispy fried noodles and sometimes, an egg. 

Rice accompanies many dishes in Thailand as a side, but it’s also enjoyed as a dessert, too. Mango sticky rice is made with cooked rice that’s then drizzled with a cooked coconut cream and served with sweet, ripe mango. It can also be enjoyed for breakfast or as a snack.

Thailand is home to red, yellow and green curries, each with a completely different flavour profile. While yellow is typically the mildest and red is considered medium-heat, those looking for something spicy should order the Thai green curry—but you’ve been warned! Served with warm roti bread or rice, the green curry is made with a coconut milk base, bitter-tasting baby eggplants, lime leaves and cilantro and topped with either chicken or shrimp. 

DO

ERAWAN WATERFALLS

Located in Erawan National Park in Kanchanaburi, just north of Bangkok, Erawan Falls is a cascading, seven-tiered waterfall that gets its name from the three-headed mythical Hindu elephant bearing the same name.

The hike to the seventh tier takes a couple of hours, but level two of the falls is a gorgeous spot to take a dip—and enjoy a free fish spa treatment.

The falls are home to hundreds of red garra fish, sometimes called “doctor fish”, as they’re known to nibble the surface layer of your skin—it doesn’t hurt, but if you’re ticklish, just keep treading!

TAKE TIME FOR TEMPLES

Thailand is home to more than 40,000 temples, ranging from ancient ruins to modern works of art. In Ayutthaya, you’ll find one of the region’s oldest and most significant temples, Wat Maha That, a former royal temple opened in 1374.

In Bangkok, travellers can visit Wat Traimit, also known as the Temple of the Golden Buddha.

Wat Pho is a temple complex where you’ll find the Reclining Buddha, a massive statue measuring 46 metres in length and 15 metres tall, covered in dazzling gold foil and mother-of-pearl. In Thailand, it’s customary to remove your shoes before entering a temple.

BARGAIN IN BANGKOK

For those looking for a deal on souvenirs, Thailand’s night markets—aptly named because they typically open at 6 p.m. or later and run into the wee hours of the morning—are the perfect place to spend your remaining Thai baht.

Like any good street market, you can bargain with the vendors (to a degree). From incense sticks to Muay Thai boxing shorts, to handmade pottery and jade jewellery, you’ll find it here. The Anusarn Market in Chiang Mai is one such market that also doubles as a food hall where you can delve into Thai favourites, or try something new, like fried scorpion.


This story first appeared in the Summer 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To subscribe to the print magazine, click here.

Rethink the drink: 15 of the best canned mocktails for summer

Back in 2023, Health Canada proposed new guidelines for alcohol intake, based on a series of recommendations by the Canadian Centre on Substance Use and Addiction (CCSA).

The report concluded that to reduce some of the harms associated with alcohol intake, Canadians should consume no more than two alcoholic drinks per week.


And while cutting back on booze is nothing new, the numbers don’t lie—more Canadians, especially Gen Z (those born 1997 to 2011) and Millennials (1981-1996), are embracing a sober lifestyle.

Data taken from Statistics Canada in 2021 shows that there was a 10.1 per cent decline in heavy alcohol consumption in Canadians aged 18 to 34 years, which is almost one-third (31.5 per cent) lower compared with those who reported high consumption levels in 2015, and those numbers have only continued to decline since. 

Data from the Expedia Group’s Unpack ‘24 survey also reveals that more than 40 per cent of travellers say they are likely to book a detox trip in the next year, with another one in four saying that the top reason for drinking less on vacation is to stay in control and feel better emotionally and physically.

Luckily, we’ve come a long way from justifying overpriced juice and settling for sad seltzer at the bar, or on holiday. Distillers are getting creative with their mocktails, whether that means infusing housemade syrups or using foraged herbs and botanicals for an even better buzz. In support of a hangover-free summer, here are 15 of our favourite canned mocktails for slow sipping.

Espresso Martini: Monsieur Cocktail

Largely known for their syrups and bitters, Monsieur Cocktail’s non-alcoholic line, NOA, carries a canned espresso martini beverage. Sweetened with a hint of amaretto, you can expect bold notes of roasted coffee, complete with a frothy top—just remember to shake well, first.

Gin and Tonic: Sir James 101

Pretty and pink, Sir James’ alcohol-free gin and tonic has a subtle hint of raspberry and pomegranate tucked amongst familiar herbal notes of juniper. It looks almost as good as it tastes!

Piña Colada: HP Juniper

If you like piña coladas, you’ll love this one from Quebec distiller HP Juniper—creamy coconut, fruity pineapple and warm vanilla swirl together to create the perfect fake take on this classic cocktail that pairs well with lazy days by the lake or pool.

Margarita: Little Saints

Lime, a hint of jalapeño and turmeric blend together to form this spicy take on a marg. While this drink is zero-proof, it’s infused with organic reishi mushroom—a centuries-old ingredient that calms the mind and body. And we’ll drink to that!

Martini: Mixoloshe

A little lychee and a hint of sparkle make for a mean martini. For an extra fancy take, shake and serve in a martini glass, garnished with fresh strawberries or raspberries. Mixoloshe recently rebranded to SMASHD, and their line of non-alcoholic drinks are under 50 calories and sweetened with cane sugar.

Mimosa: Fauxmosa

Whether it’s for brunch or just because, Fauxmosa’s orange mimosa with turmeric tastes like the real deal. The addition of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc grapes and a hint of apple cider vinegar lend a familiar sour slant.

Mojito: Noroi

A hint of tangy, summer raspberries pairs perfectly with the zestiness of lime in this mojito, produced by Quebec’s own Noroi Distillerie.

Moscow Mule: Edna's

Vancouver-based Edna’s blends natural ginger, fresh lime juice and whisky extracts—lending to an almost replica taste, with none of the alcohol content.

Negroni: Wild Folk

With a sparkling twist, WildFolk’s take on a negroni has a mix of smoky and bitter botanicals like grapefruit rind, juniper, star anise and grapefruit.

Paloma: Olé

A good paloma (tequila infused with grapefruit juice) should still provide a bit of a bitter bite—Olé’s version of a Mexican classic is sweetened naturally with organic agave nectar and real grapefruit juice, so there’s none of that sickeningly sweet aftertaste.

Peach Bellini: aelo

Just like a juicy Ontario peach in the middle of August, this bellini is bursting with flavour, and soda water for a fizzy finish. This one’s sugar-free, too—aelo uses Stevia extract to sweeten its drinks.

Sangria: Clever

Crafted in Canada and distilled in small batches, juicy notes of peach blend with the taste of bitter orange and lemon peels for a truly refreshing taste.

Spritz: Optimist Botanicals

An adaptation of one of summer’s favourite drinks, the Cali Spritz blends citrus notes of pink grapefruit and Mandarin orange with bitter herbs of bay laurel, sage, wormwood, gentian and dandelion root. Ashwagandha and schisandra are added to relieve stress and promote balance.

Whisky & Cola: Lyre's

The crisp taste of cola and sweet layers of caramel, toasted nut, cedary spice and rye come together in a can of Lyre’s American Malt & Cola. Perfect as is for cottage barbecue sessions or, for an elevated take, pour into a highball glass and enjoy with a generous serving of ice.

Whisky Sour: Spiritless

An old time favourite, this pour-over version of a classic whisky sour uses Spiritless’ Kentucky 74 non-alcoholic whisky, fresh lemon juice and a touch of cane sugar. Feel free to shake with an egg white and add ice, or drink it straight from the can.