Here are some of the best things I did on an eight-day trip to Israel

Of all the things I envisioned doing in Israel – from floating in the Dead Sea to visiting the historic Western Wall – one thing I didn’t remotely anticipate was to wind up defacing public property.

Yet here I am, feeling like a rebel, with a can of light pink spray paint in my right hand in the back streets of Tel Aviv – in broad daylight to boot. 

Let me rewind a bit. This wasn’t my idea. It all started innocently enough under the guise of a graffiti tour through the artsy Florentin neighbourhood. After seeing some impressive pieces and learning about different types of street art such as site-specific murals that incorporate structural elements of a building, like an exterior cable or a pipe into the design, our tour guide and Tel Aviv-based musician, Maor Abitbul, opened his backpack and proceeded to pass out cans of spray paint. “Now it’s your turn,” he says. 

One by one, everyone on the tour quite literally started leaving their mark on Tel Aviv. Suddenly, our amateur creative process was interrupted by a family who had witnessed our mischief. But rather than stopping us, they asked to borrow a can of spray paint and we watched on as their young daughter stepped up to the wall to continue our masterpiece. 

In all honesty, it was a practice wall for artists so no damage or vandalism was done, but looking back on it now, it’s one of the experiences that made my first visit to the country so memorable.

New charm in the Old City

In a destination where old meets new, iconic religious sites like the Church of the Holy Sepulchre —the site where Jesus was said to have been resurrected — are steps away from vibrant markets and lively restaurants. 

The Machane Yehuda Market, also known as “The Shuk,” truly comes alive at night. During the day some 250 vendors sell fresh fruits and vegetables, spices and a variety of street food and desserts, but at night it’s a hotspot to hangout. Craft beer fans will want to visit the Beer Bazaar, which offers more than 100 types of Israeli beer.

Right next door is a trendy spot called Thinkers Distillery, which is known for its vodka.

Michael Ginosar, vice president of business development for Thinkers Distillery, says the idea behind Thinkers is to build on Israel’s reputation as a start-up nation and take advantage of advances in science, technology, chemistry and physics to take spirits to the next level. “We incorporate all that into the production process with the goal of making the best possible spirits,” he says. “The aim of this whole company is to make the best possible spirits and start exporting them all over the world.”

Today, Thinkers Distillery has a visitor’s centre that’s open for tasting sessions as well as distillery tours. Although they have big ambitions, he says there aren’t many others in their industry in Israel. “Israel has a lot of wineries — and it’s a good place to grow grapes. There are excellent wines coming out of Israel,” he adds. “There’s a brewing industry that’s really grown in the past 10-15 years, you’re seeing a lot of craft breweries, but for spirits, it’s still a really, really small industry.”

Wine tourism is another area that continues to expand in Israel.

Over the last two decades, Israel’s wine scene has grown tremendously from a handful of producers to more than “300 boutique wineries,” notes Nevo Winery’s general manager Lior Perl. The winery, which has indoor and outdoor tasting rooms, is located in the Judean Hills, about a half hour from Jerusalem. 

Set on the premises of what was previously a kindergarten, she says Nevo Winery has the distinguishing feature of having a wine cellar that’s located in a former bomb shelter. “We produce about 20,000 bottles a year, on a regular year,” Perl explains ahead of a tasting. 

Where to stay in Israel

Dan Tel Aviv Hotel

Want to follow in the footsteps of Justin Bieber, Anthony Kiedis, 50 Cent, and Keith Richards? The main entryway to Dan Tel Aviv Hotel is lined with autographs from the celebrities who have previously stayed at the five-star property.

The hotel is situated directly across from the main beach with unforgettable sea views to catch the sunset. One of the aspects that sets it apart is its lavish breakfast spread. We’re talking shakshuka, smoked salmon, fruit, freshly baked goods and even multiple kinds of cheesecake! 

The Magdala Hotel

For a one-of-a-kind experience, The Magdala Hotel at the shores of the Sea of Galilee is built around an archeological site.

The boutique hotel actually has fewer rooms than were initially planned because ruins were discovered from the first century town of Magdala in the building process. Known as the crossroads of Jewish and Christian history and the birthplace of Mary Magdalene, Magdala Hotel is home to The Magdala Stone and a first century synagogue.

To make it even more unique, there’s an original first century fountain in the lobby of the hotel. 

This city in Jordan is actually home to some of the best Roman ruins outside Europe

Visiting the Jordanian capital of Amman can quickly turn into an open-air history class.

Tourism officials note that the Romans, Greeks, Byzantines and Muslims all left their mark on the city, with plenty of historical reminders found in both Amman itself and nearby as well.

Roman ruins — including an amphitheatre — can be found in some parts of Amman, with local guide Ahmad “Ace” Malhas saying there was a time when the Roman presence was even more visible.

“Wherever we’re stepping there was a ruin,” Malhas told a recent group.

“Roman ruins are not just in Italy,” adds local tourism official Tamer Nassar.

A hilltop museum also tells of the long past of Amman, known as Philadelphia during the Roman era.

Near Amman are the Greco-Roman ruins of Jerash, home to remarkably well preserved structures.

“Basically the Greeks came and then the Romans added their fingerprints,” Malhas says of Jerash. “I believe it is the most preserved Roman city outside Rome and signifies the history of the Middle East.”

Jerash attractions include the Hippodrome, which the Romans used for chariot races.

Many Jerash ruins have yet to be excavated, Malhas adds.

Malhas notes that Amman’s largest mosque faces a Coptic church, which he says underscores the “peaceful co-existence” found between Christians and Muslims in his homeland.

Meanwhile, Malhas says there’s a lot more to Jordan than a historical side underscored by the likes of Roman ruins and the famed archeological site of Petra.

“If they (tourists) come to Amman they will  know this is an urban country too,” he said, citing the likes of stores, restaurants, upscale hotels and nightlife found in the city.

—STORY BY IAN STALKER

Day and Night: The ultimate Jordan itinerary

Jordan will provide visitors with an endless number of exotic experiences, regardless of whether it's sun-up or sundown. The country's storied history and intriguing landscapes ensure that there never needs to be a dull moment for vacationers.

DAY

The Jordan Trail

Duha Fayyad is inviting energetic sorts to trod over terrain that has hosted the likes of Roman Legions, Biblical figures and even Indiana Jones. Fayyad is the vice-president of the Jordan Trail, a 675-kilometre walkway that links northernmost Jordan with the Red Sea-fronting resort destination of Aqaba, with those who hike it in its entirety seeing some dramatic Jordanian tourist attractions. “It is a completely different experience. You miss out on so much when you take a vehicle,” says hiking enthusiast Fayyad of the non-mainstream manner of touring her homeland.

The Jordan Trail officially opened in 2017 and covers eight regions that Fayyad reports differ noticeably. Northern Jordan, for instance, has a lot of greenery, while desert awaits those who head to the trail’s southern part. Trail officials rate day-long hikes by degree of difficulty, with the scale ranging from Moderate to Challenging.

Among trail highlights are Petra—the ancient Nabatean city carved from rock faces and part of which was showcased in the blockbuster movie, Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, and Wadi Rum, the desert retreat associated with Lawrence of Arabia and the Arab revolt. Those who opt for the entire marked trail can do it at their own pace, perhaps taking more than six weeks to complete it, at times staying in homes in villages along the way, eating local dishes with the “super hospitable” occupants of those houses. Camping is another option, including in areas with few people.

“It forces you to connect with nature and the land,” Fayyad says. Participants may spot both domestic and wild animals, with the latter possibly including the likes of foxes, birds and different reptiles. Fayyad says those who complete the trailoverseen by NGO Jordan Trail Associationwill see parts of the country that are steeped in history, with the trail’s mid-section built along Roman trade routes. More information can be found at jordantrail.org.

Wadi Rum

Visiting Jordan’s Wadi Rum region can be uplifting in a literal sense for energetic sorts. And perhaps a little tiring as well. Wadi Rum is best known for serving as a hideout for Lawrence of Arabia and other participants in the Arab Revolt and today attracts tourists eager to see an intriguing landscape of sand, dunes and rock outcroppings.

Those exploring it on a four-wheel drive desert safari are welcome to climb a steep, lengthy, sandy slope that leads them to a level area bordering towering rock faces, with tour guide Ahmad “Ace” Malhas cautioning those eager to trek upwards that the gradient won’t be the only challenge. “They think it will be easy but when they try it they say, ‘Oh my God! It’s so long,'” he reports, adding the sand surface makes planting your feet somewhat tricky.

Would-be trekkers are advised that the upward jaunt will be easier barefôot than with shoes, thanks to the sand. After descending, climbers can have traditional Bedouin tea. Meanwhile, Malhas says those who top the massive dune will be rewarded by looking down on the type of landscapes Lawrence called “vast, echoing and God-like.”

Ammarin Camp

Jordanian tour company employee Tamer Nassar will happily introduce tourists to some Bedouin-style baking and brewing. Among locales Nassarwith Kawar Tours, which sends people throughout Jordancan take visitors to is Ammarin Camp, a Bedouin encampment near the interior Jordan setting of Bediah, with the encampment found in the type of desert-like setting that Bedouins have long called home.

Those visiting Ammarin Camp can enjoy such traditional foods as hummus while sitting on low cushions, eating in a traditional Bedouin manner. The food itself is placed on a table in a recess in a dramatic rockface. Guests can stay in the camp, or overnight in the Bedouin tents and enjoy meals cooked and eaten amongst local residents, too. Those visitors can also watch a local woman bake Bedouin bread and another area residents produce traditional coffee in a manner that might seem laborious to Western coffee drinkers.

Nassar says coffee is very much part of Jordanian culture. “Wherever you go, they will offer you coffee,” adding such useful pointers that those visiting Bedouins should limit themselves to three cups of coffee as requesting a fourth is considered disrespectful in their culture. More information on the encampment can be found at bedouincamp.net/. More information on Jordan tours can be found at kawartours.com 


NIGHT

 

Petra beneath the stars

Night time can be the right time to view Petra’s most dramatic feature. The Nabatean archeological site hosts Petra By Night three times a week, with those attending finding the famed gorge leading to The Treasury illuminated by candles, while the area before the towering, beautifully carved structure is also lit by a huge number of candles.

Visitors will hear Bedouin flute music and a narration tells of Petra’s storied past. Those who oversee Petra want people to realize that Petra By Night isn’t a modern sound-and-light show.

“Walking through a canyon, which is illuminated just by candlelight, is a unique experience,” the Petra Development & Tourism Region Authority says. “Once you have reached The Treasury, enjoy the magic atmosphere: listen to a Bedouin playing his flute and reciting an old tale of the Nabatean times. You will enjoy an organic sound and light exaltation of the innate talent of the Nabateans, who so magnificently enhanced the natural beauty of their capital.”

 


 

Petra Kitchen

Those interested in learning how to cook up a storm Bedouin-style should consider taking a class at Petra Kitchen, which is found close to the archeological site of Petra and offers classes that can teach people how to make such Jordanian staples as lentil soup, tahini, baba ganoush and other dishes in a spotlessly clean kitchen.

Among those offering tourists pointers is Ahmad Daana, who sports a chef’s jacket and learned to cook from his mother. “They do a very good job,” he says of his students. Those students have included New Yorker David Yaw Anokye, who learned to appreciate cooking during his many travels and says Petra Kitchen inspired him. “I’ll keep practicing,” he says of Jordanian cuisine. His sister, Love, also took a class and says she was more than pleased with what she helped create. “I’m proud to help cook the food and have it taste so good,” she says, adding she was pleased to see vegan-friendly dishes available for guests to prepare.

Star gazing

There’s no question that those who vacation in Jordan may return home feeling a little star-struck. The country offers many great locales for stargazing, including Wadi Rum, where stars help light up the night. Wadi Rum is considered ideal for viewing the heavens after dark, thanks to a combination of factors, among them few people living there, meaning light pollution doesn’t affect views of what’s shining overhead after sundown. The desert environment also leads to clear skies.

 

There are many accommodation options for visitors, among them Bedouin tents for those wanting to experience a Bedouin lifestyle. Those wanting to look to the stars will also find geodesic domes to overnight in. The dwellings enable people to look directly skyward after deciding to hit the hay.

Israel has finally dropped mandatory PCR testing for travellers

Israel’s Ministry of Health has confirmed that Israel is dropping its final COVID-19 curbs by removing on-arrival PCR tests.

Under the new guidelines agreed by the Ministry of Health and the Airports Authority, passengers landing at Ben Gurion airport from May 20 will no longer be required to perform a PCR test.

The news was announced via a statement on Israel’s Ministry of Health’s Twitter, which when translated from Hebrew to English, reads as such: “Passengers landing at Ben Gurion Airport starting on May 20, 2002 will no longer be required to perform a PCR test.

The decision was made in light of the decline in morbidity data and at the end of discussions that took place between the professionals in the Ministry of Health and the staff of the Airports Authority.

It was agreed that the professionals would formulate a mechanism for maintaining the suitability of the testing system at Ben Gurion Airport, in order to enable it to be operated quickly, in full or in part when necessary.”

The Tweet is linked here for reference: https://twitter.com/IsraelMOH/status/1523230785893183488

Further to this, the Ministry of Health also confirmed that starting this Tuesday (May 10) foreigners flying to Israel will now be allowed to take an antigen test before boarding the plane instead of a PCR test.

Any passenger who chooses the antigen option will be required to perform the test in the 24 hours prior to their departure to Israel.

The announcements come following the ongoing decline in morbidity data and number of COVID-19 cases and are the latest developments by Israel to ease the entry process since relaxing vaccination entry requirements in February earlier this year.

Israel’s Minister of Tourism Yoel Ravozov tweeted his support of the news stating that he was “glad” that Corona tests for all those entering Israel will be stopped.

Now, until May 20, travellers will still have to pre-book and undergo the original testing protocols upon arrival in Israel.