Our guide to exploring the best of Rome by day and night

With a history spanning 2,775 years, Rome is loaded with impressive ancient architecture seemingly around every corner. While the sights continue to lure in international visitors, Italy’s capital city is also known for its vibrant food scene, culture and nightlife.

“The Eternal City is just that – eternal and timeless in its appeal, as it continues to exude more than 2,000 years of history and culture,” guided tour operator Tauck’s product manager, Brenda MacKellar, who designs and oversees the tour operator’s itineraries in Italy, tells Offshore. “One can encounter ancient ruins in an amazing array of places — at the Roman Forum or one of the many other well-known archeological sites throughout the city, or in completely unexpected places – for example, underneath a church.”

Along with iconic spots, here are some surefire ways to ensure a memorable visit to The Eternal City. 

DAY

PHOTO SPOTS

For a unique view of St. Peter’s Basilica, head to the Aventine Keyhole on the top of Aventine Hill. The unassuming door gives way to a perfectly framed view of the basilica’s dome. Many visitors come to take a photo through the keyhole, but it’s also possible to enter the gardens with a booked appointment through the Priory of Knights of Malta.

For those who keep track of places they’ve visited, the area and the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta, located down the road from the Spanish Steps, have rights of extraterritoriality. This means that those who visit either spot, along with the Vatican City during an Italian voyage, can add three destinations to their repertoire or set foot in three separate destinations in one day.

While in the Vatican, one of the best views of Rome is from the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. It’s €8 to climb to the top by foot or €10 for the elevator ride so we recommend splurging on the lift.

STROLL

To many first time visitors, Rome can seem like an enormous, sprawling city. However, it’s far more walkable than many realize.

“I love to take a leisurely passeggiata (stroll) through the city centre that takes in so many splendid sites, such as Piazza di Spagna, the Pantheon — perhaps the most well preserved of the city’s ancient buildings — or the Piazza del Popolo,” says MacKellar, who spent five years living in Rome. “Along the way, I try to step inside some of Rome’s wonderful churches, like San Luigi dei Francesi where you can see no less than three amazing Caravaggio paintings. In a very real sense, Rome is a living museum.”

STAY

For a remarkable stay, check into Palazzo Dama, a boutique property set in a former noble palace that once served as the residence of the Malaspinas, a family that hosted high-society gatherings for dignitaries, diplomats, aristocrats, and the cultural elite.

The elegant hotel features 29 guestrooms and suites with marble bathrooms, mere steps away from Piazza del Popolo and a short walk to other attractions like The Spanish Steps and The Trevi Fountain. From handwritten notes delivered during turndown service featuring the weather for the next day to a custom pillow menu, the hotel focuses on providing elevated service.

Stand out features include crystal chandeliers, a picturesque pool and secluded indoor and outdoor spots to chill and dine. Palazzo Dama is a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts’ L.V.X. portfolio of luxury properties known for providing exclusive service in unique settings. To escape the heat during a hot summer’s day, we recommend hitting the outdoor pool for an afternoon dip.

NIGHT

SUNSET

While Aperol Spritz has become a trendy drink of choice for cocktail hour in Canada, Italy’s bars boast many different varieties like the Limoncello Spritz and the Hugo Spritz (made with an elderflower liqueur such as St. Germain). 

“After your passeggiata, take advantage of the city’s vibrant café culture and kick back with an aperitivo drink and light snack in the early evening,” says MacKellar. “It’s a wonderful opportunity to savour Rome’s charms, enjoy wonderful people watching, or simply relax before meeting friends for dinner in one of the city’s incredible restaurants.”

There are many hot spots to view the sunset for aperitivo hour such as the rooftop bar Terrace Les Etoiles and the Terrazza Borromini featuring spectacular 360 degree views over Rome, or Aroma, a one-star Michelin restaurant overlooking the Colosseum. 

DINE

Overall, Italy is renowned for its food scene and Rome does not disappoint. 

Cacio e pepe is a symbol of Rome – like the Colosseum — it’s an institution. This typically Roman pasta dish goes back to ancient times,” says Irma Berlingieri, manager, product development at Air Canada Vacations. “In their sacks, local shepherds would carry cacio cheese made from sheep’s milk, pepper, and dried spaghetti.”

To try this classic pasta dish made with cheese and black pepper, Berlingieri suggests Settimo Roman Cuisine & Terrace, Osteria Zi’Umberto or Felice A Testaccio. Reservations are recommended as popular spots book up quickly. 

“Italy’s capital also calls for carbonara, a deliciously egg-based pasta with pancetta or guanciale (cured pork jowl) and pecorino romano cheese,” she adds. “Save space for an order of the seasonal carciofo alla giudia, Rome’s famous deep-fried, Jewish-style artichokes, and snack on supplì, fried rice balls usually stuffed with tomato sauce, mozzarella and meat.”

BEAT THE CROWDS

Rome also boasts gorgeous Baroque architecture and amazing fountains. “Trevi Fountain is perhaps the best known, but a personal favourite is Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona,” says MacKellar.

Beat some of the crowds by visiting the fountains at night with a gelato or a wine in hand, instead of during the day when many cruise ships are in port. Gelato shops are open late so this treat isn’t just for daytime. The Nutella and Kinder flavours are hard to beat. 

“In addition to delicious food, Rome has historical sites everywhere you turn,” adds Berlingieri. “Walking the small streets is the best way to find cafés, gelato shops or small typical cuisine restaurants around every corner. Taking advantage of a hop-on hop-off is the fastest way to cover a lot of ground exploring the surroundings at every stop.”

This article first appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the digital magazine.

Island hopping in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

It’s breakfast time at Young Island Resort, a 13-acre private island just offshore of St. Vincent, and I’ve requested one of the house specialties: Creole French toast on homemade cinnamon bread. 

“What we are using is our very famous rum — the St. Vincent strong rum — and it’s very lethal,” my server Donovan says with a smile as he pours the rum over the coconut shavings topping the French toast, lights a match, holds it close to the bread and stands on watch as the rum bursts into flames. “Voila!” To extinguish the fire, I drench the plate with a healthy pour of maple syrup. I then proceed to cut into it with anticipation. Beachside breakfast is served! 

When it comes to the French toast at Young Island Resort, guests have plenty of options. While the homemade bread is a house specialty, they can opt for other breads, too, including homemade coconut bread or banana bread. “We’re known for our bread,” adds general manager, Bianca Porter. “When I’m on the road guests will tell me, ‘we always remember the bread!’”

As I found out, the Sunset Very Strong Rum used in the French toast is an overproof 84.5% alc/vol white rum which can only be consumed in destination as 70% ABV is the legal limit before it’s considered a flammable flight risk. Perhaps this is where Johnny Depp drew inspiration for the rum-loving pirate he played, Captain Jack Sparrow, in Pirates of the Caribbean—Young Island Resort, with its 29 unique beach and hillside cottages, actually housed the cast of the film. 

Keeping out the Kardashians

At Petit St. Vincent, a 115-acre private island resort on the southern tip of the Grenadines, room service runs a little bit differently than at your standard Caribbean resorts. Instead of dialing down to the desk for my order, I take a menu form from my bedroom, fill it out and place the sheet of paper in the wooden mailbox slot at the end of the driveway to my secluded villa. Then, to signal the attention of the staff, I raise up the small yellow flag before heading back inside. 

The next day at exactly the requested time of 8 a.m., one of the resort’s butlers rings the bell outside of my villa and sets up the eggs benedict feast on the private cliffside balcony. Each comes complete with a hammock, stocked mini bar and a jar of homemade cookies.

Butler service is included at Petit St. Vincent for no additional charge. There are 22 one-and-two bedroom cottages, each equipped with one red and one yellow flag, which communicate various service requests to staff.

“Red, when that’s raised up to the top, it means do not disturb; nobody comes to the cottage. The yellow flag is used for anything else, — breakfast, lunch and dinner — if you run out of wine again and want some more wine, and it can go up as many times during the day as you like,” explains Petit St. Vincent’s general manager, Matt Semark, who added that the system is also set up to deliver lunch at the various beach areas around the island. 

Sand and sun

Naturally, I also test the effectiveness of this process during a leisurely afternoon soaking up the sun on a secluded stretch of beach. Shortly after filling out our lunch order, two servers approached my group’s chaises. They’re carrying our meals, along with a bottle of sauvignon blanc in a wine chiller and our ice cream preserved in chilled containers so it doesn’t melt by the time we get to dessert.

“The really cool thing about the Grenadines and St. Vincent is that we’re all very different in style. We all offer slightly different experiences,” Semark notes. “For us, it’s more about privacy, seclusion, space and hiding away. It’s a very personalized experience. We have a very long average length of stay and we have a 63 per cent return rate annually.”

Although the private island resort with 22 cottages appeals to celebrities like Ed Sheeran — who has posted about staying there so he’s allowed to talk about it — Semark explains that they’re very discreet about their clientele and provide top-notch service in an understated way.

“We’ve turned the Kardashians away five times. We want to stay low key,” he says. “We’re an unpretentious luxury.”

The Caribbean you’re looking for 

 Described as a throwback to the Caribbean before mass tourism, the destination is the antithesis to other Caribbean countries pushing to grow their visitor arrivals. 

From the purposeful lack of TVs in many hotel rooms across the destination, to an eye-catching ‘anti-chain’ food vendor with the words Bequia Pizza Hut hand painted across the front, the charm of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is its authentic old world Caribbean vibe. 

“Our tagline is the Caribbean you’re looking for… we like to think of St. Vincent and the Grenadines as the Caribbean that’s completely untouched and unspoiled, with character and charm,” says Glenn Beache, CEO of the St. Vincent and The Grenadines Tourism Authority. “We’re not a mass tourism destination nor do we want to be. We want to maintain what makes us special.”

Made up of 32 islands and cays, the destination features diverse islands like Young Island, Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Union Island, Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent — as well as The Tobago Cays, a horseshoe shaped reef with five deserted islets.

“We like to keep it hidden. It’s a place we like to keep secret. We don’t talk about it too much,” explains Batu Erem, the general manager for Soho Beach House Canouan, which opened in 2021. “What we like to tailor, what we like to share is that this is your rustic, rugged Robin Crusoe-y type of experience that you’re not going to get in the Northern Leeward islands but it still exists here. It’s casual wellness. This is the place that you come to unplug, this is the place where you come to rejuvenate. There’s no TV in the rooms. This is that little haven and that’s why we like to keep it a secret. It’s like being back in time in the old Caribbean, and that’s what we try to preserve here.”

Soho Beach House Canouan is the only Caribbean outpost for Soho House, which typically operates on a membership-only basis. However, this boutique 40-bedroom property on Grand Bay Beach is open to non-member bookings as well. One of the perks of a stay here is that guests get to keep the travel sized skincare products in each room.

Similarly, at the largest of the Grenadine islands, Bequia Beach Hotel’s general manager Elisabeth Alleyne says she’s often rejected when asking guests for an online review to spread the word about the hotel. 

“I asked a guest to give us a TripAdvisor review and they said ‘No. I don’t want people to find out about it,’” she says. “We want customers to come here and see the genuine part, that it can be a little rustic, we need to keep that. I think it’s the way the whole country is built – that it’s still very genuine. It’s more about the people than the flashy industry.”

The family-owned property is yet another that doesn’t have TVs in the room so that guests are focused on connecting with each other and the destination. 

“Each island has its own charm; it’s a different vibe wherever you go,” sums up Marlon Joseph, hospitality officer, SVGTA. “But it’s all chill.”

This story first appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. For the full version, click here to read the digital magazine. 

Four of the best staycations to have this autumn

While summer may have quietly slipped away, most nights in September and October are still favourable enough to sit outside.

Recognizing that summer in Canada is indeed too short, many hotels and resorts stay open through autumn, with a number of unique packages and experiences suited to the new season.

Whether you’re looking for a place to stay over the Thanksgiving long weekend, or simply want one last road trip retreat before the leaves drop for good, here are four fantastic properties to discover in Ontario and New York state.

Rawley Resort | Port Severn, ON

Just one-and-a-half hours from Toronto, Rawley Resort is a slice of paradise hiding out in Georgian Bay. Formerly an old hunting lodge used during the height of pine logging in the region, this year marks the resort’s 100th birthday.

To celebrate the occasion, Rawley Resort  redesigned their luxurious Lighthouse45 Restaurant — including a complete makeover of its menu, featuring delicious farm-to-table eats with foraged ingredients. To guide the creation of the new menu, Rawley has recruited Chef Chris Locke, formerly of Toronto’s first farm-to-table restaurant, Marben. Enjoy live music in the dining room every Thursday to Sunday, or opt to dine al fresco and watch the sun go down. 

Guests can choose to stay in spacious suites with king bed options, walkout terraces (these are pet-friendly) or two-level waterside lofts, complete with a private upper balcony.

Looking for a bit of added elegance? Request to have a bottle of chilled champagne and decadent chocolate covered strawberries brought to your room for $60. Rawley Resort is also home to an outstanding spa that offers a number of treatments, but their signature service is the facials. Opt for a gemstone facial ($135) or try out a non-surgical facelift with one of the RMD structural remodeling facial treatments, done using electrotherapy technologies.

Rawley Resort is open for booking early May through early October.

Wander the Resort | Bloomfield, ON

Set on the shores of Lake Ontario, Wander the Resort is a sophisticated Canadian cottage experience quite like no other. Located in Prince Edward County, about two hours from Toronto, Wander is home to just 10 dreamy cabins, all decked out in a Nordic aesthetic. From pool and lakeside cabins to a massive A-frame treehouse, their interiors range in size from 500 to 1,400 square feet and feature homey accents, like sheepskin rugs and cool wooden decor.

Thoughtful amenities, like handcrafted bath and shower products, an indoor and an outdoor gas fireplace, organic cotton linens and heated floors make this spot feel like your home away from home for the weekend.

The lakeside restaurant on site, Gather, offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu using locally sourced ingredients, and is open for weekend brunch, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Home to some of the province’s most stunning fall foliage, Prince Edward County is packed with outdoor opportunities, including sustainable farm visits, vineyard tastings, microbreweries and fall fairs. Guests who book at Wander from Sept. 17 to Oct. 19 can receive a $100 food and beverage credit to be used at Gather.

Chautauqua Harbor Hotel | Celoron, NY

Chautauqua Harbor Hotel is a luxury, four-season waterfront resort on the shores of Lake Chautauqua  in the state of New York. Independently owned and operated, the property features generously-sized guestrooms and suites, many of which boast panoramic lake views and balconies, which make for the perfect autumn evening with the addition of a glass of wine.

At the lively Carousel Bar, guests can enjoy wood-fired pizzas and craft beers, while at the Lake House Tap & Grill, American fare and al fresco dining can be enjoyed on the patio. 

Plenty of other amenities, like several indoor and outdoor pools, fire pits and an abundance of nature for outdoor activities make Chautauqua Harbor a fantastic place to visit year-round. Part of Lake Erie wine country, Chautauqua County is the largest grape-cultivating county outside of California, and is home to a number of vineyards and wineries that offer unique tastings and award-winning wines.

1000 Islands Harbor Hotel | Clayton, NY

Stationed on the St. Lawrence River, 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel is the only AAA Four Diamond Hotel in the 1000 Islands region. It offers 105 handsomely appointed guest rooms and suites, many with panoramic river views and balconies.

There’s also an indoor heated pool and hot tub and a state-of-the-art fitness centre for guests. As the nights get cooler, The Riverside Patio is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine or a pint around one of the outdoor fire pits. Fine dining is also offered at the Seaway Grille and the 1000 Islands Bar. 

Just in time for autumn, the annual Apple Days event returns from Sept. 5 to Oct. 15. Celebrating apple-picking season in Upstate New York, visitors can enjoy a plethora of seasonal amenities, such as apples and fresh cider at check-in, and special menu items featuring delicious apple-inspired dishes and signature cocktails. Guests will receive a list of nearby orchards they can visit for apple picking.