Santa Monica: California’s cool

November 27, 2024 No Comments

Just after the sun comes up, surfers dash down the long, sandy stretch of beach and launch their boards into the water, as wave after wave of runners with tanned shoulders and coordinated outfits prance down the boardwalk behind.

Some push strollers, some hold dog leashes, and others throw up a peace sign and offer a smile to passersby. 

Located west of downtown Los Angeles, Santa Monica is a coastal city known for its famed Santa Monica Pier and Pacific Park, which features multiple oceanfront dining venues, midway games and riveting rides, including the first-ever solar-powered ferris wheel and a rollercoaster.

Home to 95,000 residents, the city is also a hub for health and wellness enthusiasts. Just south of the pier, you’ll find the Original Muscle Beach—an outdoor gym that opened in the 1930s that’s decked out with aerial ropes, parallel bars, travelling rings and swings.

Originally intended for use by acrobats, gymnasts and wrestlers, now, at any hour of the day, it’s not uncommon to see people young and old, doing everything from tight-rope walking to acro yoga, aerial rope tricks and meditation. In 1952, Muscle Beach Venice, a 20-minute walk from the Santa Monica Muscle Beach, was opened, and became the training grounds for some of the greatest bodybuilders of all time, including Arnold Schwarzenegger and Lou Ferrigno.

 “In Santa Monica, you can do whatever you want to do, and be whoever you want to be.”

Pedalling on my e-bike alongside my guide Erik Sines, from Bikes and Hikes LA, I watch as he effortlessly interacts with everyone we pass—the vendor selling artwork spread out on a picnic blanket; the man blasting Biggie from a stereo; the couple sitting on the grass as the sun sets over Santa Monica Beach.

“The thing I love most about Santa Monica is that you can wander down to the beach any time of day and leave with a handful of new friends,” he says, noting that he’s lived in several other places, but always finds his way back.

“In Santa Monica, you can do whatever you want to do, and be whoever you want to be,” he adds, right as a man on rollerblades wearing a cowboy hat saunters by singing opera and a woman with bright purple lipstick and a faux fur coat pushes two Pomeranian pups in a stroller.

Off the beach and the boardwalk, Santa Monica is also well-known for its restaurant and bar scene, as well as its shopping. Largely influenced by coastal Mediterranean and Mexican diets, Santa Monica is home to 14 Michelin-starred spots and countless other options ranging from mom n’ pop shops to food trucks, cafes and contemporary eateries that often specialize in seafood and seasonal farm-to-table dishes. Most establishments do happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m., and bars shut down by 2 a.m.

For those looking to spend, Santa Monica has three main shopping districts. The Downtown District is where you’ll find Third Street Promenade, an outdoor pedestrian-only area stretching three blocks that carries a mix of retail stores and dining.

At the southern end of the Promenade you’ll find Santa Monica Place, which is another outdoor shopping district, but home to higher end brands, as well as department stores like Nordstrom and Bloomington’s. In the city’s north end, Montana Ave. promises upscale shopping from luxury boutiques, restaurants, and specialty shops.

This article first appeared in the winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full story, click here. To subscribe to the print magazine, click here.

72 hours in Baja California Sur

November 25, 2024 No Comments

Christine Roberti heads to the northwest Mexican state of Baja California Sur, stopping in the tiny coastal town of Todos Santos and the state capital of La Paz for grey whale watching, taco tasting and a whole lot of lazing around.

At night, I burrowed into the folds of the duvet on my king-sized bed and listened to the roar of the surf as it barrelled to shore across the Pacific. I left the sliding glass door to the terrace open, where a salty breeze made the gauzy curtains dance.

Tiny stars, my only night light, blinked through the inky black sky over the ocean, and when morning came, tangerine sunlight snuck across my pillow.

I resisted the urge to tear the covers off and slug back a cup of dark roast, like I do most days once 6:30 a.m. comes. In Baja California, as I learned over the course of three days, life is meant to be savoured slowly.

Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico, is a sleepy town tucked away on the Pacific coast of Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula. An hour’s drive from Los Cabos’ touristy Cabo San Lucas district, people come to Todos Santos to appreciate local art, enjoy top-notch gastronomy, surf the world-class breaks, and revel in gorgeous landscapes that include the overarching backdrop of the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range. In La Paz, visitors come for wild encounters with grey whales and whale sharks, beautiful beaches and vibrant nightlife.

DAY ONE

Start the day early, with a walking tour of Todos Santos, a designated pueblos magicos. Pueblos magicos (magic towns) are a designation provided by the Mexican government, awarded to select destinations for their exemplary showcase of authentic Mexican culture, be it through stunning architectural wonders, historical significance or natural beauty.

Todos Santos is one of roughly 180 pueblos magicos in Mexico, and it’s easy to see why.

Founded by missionaries in 1724, Todos Santos is a quiet town with a vibrant personality. It’s where artists, dreamers and surfers collide; rainbow-coloured bunting is strung through the streets, music lulls passerby from tiny shops selling everything from hand-fired ceramics to oil paintings, and a handful of restaurants promote fresh-caught seafood specialties on sidewalk menus. Stop for lunch at Oystera, a chic oyster bar with a phenomenal outdoor dining terrace, and arguably some of the best ceviche and limey margaritas in Southern Baja. 



DAY TWO

Drive an hour north and explore the capital city of La Paz for the day. Home to approximately a quarter of a million residents, there’s no shortage of things to do downtown, which is flanked by a bustling waterfront boardwalk known as the Malecón. The perfect meeting point, the Malecón is lined with bars, fusion restaurants and contemporary art sculptures.

Strolling through La Paz, you’re bound to get hungry. Embarking on your own taco tour is a great way to see the town’s culinary variety—and excellence. At Palapa Hermanos Gonzalez, you can’t go wrong with an authentic Baja fish taco—two meaty hunks of perfectly golden, battered fish are topped with chopped red onion, tomato and cilantro and drizzled with mayonnaise. Just down the street at Claro Fish Jr.’s, you can order anything from deep-fried coconut shrimp tacos to stingray.

DAY THREE

Grey whale migration peaks in Baja from January through March, but you can still count on seeing a pod from late December through April. Puerto Chale, a two-hour drive from La Paz, is a quiet fishing community on the Pacific Ocean, and the closest spot to the city for spotting grey whales. Curious and friendly, grey whales have been known to swim at surface-level directly beneath the tour boats, making for a breathtaking encounter.

Along the way, you can also spot sleeping sea lions, playful sea otters and migratory birds. For another unique aquatic experience, snorkel with whale sharks in the El Mogote peninsula, which is 15 minutes from the Bay of La Paz. Despite their size (some reach 60 ft. in length), these gentle, toothless giants are actually quite timid, and neither a shark, nor a whale—they’re actually a fish! 

This story first appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the full story. Click here to subscribe to the print magazine.