Going to great depths in Franconian Switzerland

December 13, 2024 No Comments

Ann Ruppenstein sets foot on a rocky journey through Germany’s most cavernous region, discovering the quaint towns, hiking trails and hidden wonders that await.

One thing to know about Franconian Switzerland is that, despite its somewhat misleading name, it’s not actually in Switzerland. 

Located in Upper Franconia, Bavaria, Germany, the region filled with unusual rock formations and picturesque villages set in the foothills of mountains first garnered attention for its natural caves at a time when hiking was still on the cusp of becoming a widespread idea. 

“At this time, in the beginning of the 19th century, hiking wasn’t a concept that existed. Why would you go for a walk somewhere without any purpose?” said Johannes Stemper, a nature park ranger at Riesenburg, a cave ruin with natural bridges and arches with rock formations that trace back to the Jurassic age 201.4 million years ago.

Receiving its name from the Romantics, who were poets, artists and literates of the 19th century, the region’s namesake was attributed to its comparisons of Switzerland. “At this time Switzerland was the stereotype for beauty and culture and landscapes,” Stemper said.

In the 18th century, during the Age of Enlightenment (an intellectual and philosophical movement in Europe from the 17th and 18th centuries), Franconian Switzerland was visited by students from the nearby University of Erlangen-Nuremberg, who set out to explore some of the caves in the area and unintentionally helped establish the destination as a hotspot for natural wonders. 

“Before the Age of Enlightenment, no one would have ever dared to go into a cave because it was the place of the devil — the place of evil and darkness,” Stemper said.

AN UNUSUAL DISCOVERY

Upon exploration of the caves, the students found strange animal bones and skeletal remains.

“They could not explain these animals because they were extinct,” Stemper said. “It turned out to be cave bears, cave hyenas, and even cave lions. They published their findings and in the society of educated people, it was a really big thing.”

In the weeks and months that followed, scholars and educated townsmen flocked to the area to set foot in the region’s caves for themselves, inevitably triggering the start of tourism in Franconian Switzerland.

To this day, Franconian Switzerland, located southwest of Bayreuth, is still known for its caves, including intricate limestone caves formed over millions of years. 

“We still have more than 1,000 caves in different shapes, many with big rooms connected to tiny corridors where you have to crawl through,” Stemper said. 

WHERE TO GO

Closeby on the outskirts of Pottenstein, where Rabenstein castle is perched on a hillside overlooking the charming town, a quite literal hellish dripstone cave called the Devil’s Cave (Teufelshöhle) exists. It has long lured visitors inside with its mixture of folklore, outer worldly stalagmites and stalactites, and an original skeleton of a cave bear that roamed the area some 30,000 years ago.

It’s believed that Devil’s Cave got its name because many animals would vanish into the cave, something that locals attributed to an act of the Devil. Much later, the remains of these animals were found within the cave’s walls. Rather than the handiwork of the Devil, these livestock actually met their untimely demise by falling to their deaths.

Today, the cave is also known to have therapeutic benefits used to help treat lung ailments, but most people come to take part in a guided 45-minute tour through some of its most unique features and to view the piles of animal bones scattered throughout. 

A trip to Pottenstein is often paired with a stop in the village of Tüchersfeld, where unique limestone rock formations jet out behind half-timbered houses.

About an hour’s drive from there lies another highlight of Germany’s lesser known natural side — the largest rock labyrinth in Europe. The Luisenburg in the middle of the Fichtelgebirge mountain range offers hiking trails through, above and around granite rocks and huge boulders surrounded by caves and gorges.

With several thermal spas nearby, the area is also popular for wellness and relaxation and forest bathing experiences. 

This article first appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the digital magazine. Click here to subscribe to the print magazine.

Whales, trails and Viking tales await in Newfoundland and Labrador

December 6, 2024 No Comments

Western Newfoundland and Labrador have long been on my list of places to visit for barren wilderness–and remarkable human migration history at its furthest reaches. When it’s not about flavourful seafood, sweet berries and sweeping history, Newfoundland’s Great Northern Peninsula is all about wild, wild nature. Whales breach and icebergs glisten just offshore a tuckamore laden coastline. Add in Labrador—a landscape with granite boulders strewn like a giant’s marble game—and you have an incredible drive.

WALK THE MANTLE OF THE EARTH

Heading north up the 526-kilometre Viking Trail (Route 430), the first detour for our carful of friends was Gros Morne National Park to stroll the UNESCO-designated Tablelands Trail.

With its red, Mars-like terrain, a half billion years ago, the Tablelands lay below sea level, until shifting plates forced ancient continents together and thrust up the ocean floor.

In the park’s northern section, we walked an orchid-dotted trail to reach a boat tour on Western Brook Pond, the most dramatic way to experience this inland fjord, where waterfalls descend from green 600-metre cliffs higher than Toronto’s CN Tower.

A BASQUE WHALING STATION ON LABRADOR

Continuing to St. Barbe, we traversed the Strait of Belle Isle to Labrador and loaded our car onto the Blanc-Sablon Ferry, which takes roughly two hours to cross. Fares range from $9.50 for a senior to $35.25 for a vehicle and driver and depart morning and afternoon every day from May 1 to Jan. 7 and once in the morning Jan. 8 to April 30.

Here, we spotted our first berg. Rapt by the dramatic coastal bluffs, we drove an hour north along Labrador’s Expedition 51 route to Red Bay Basque Whaling Station National Historic and UNESCO World Heritage Site, the best preserved example of early industrial scale whaling anywhere in the world.

Inside the station, a massive 400-year-old bowhead whale skeleton, as well as an original whaling boat are on display. On the site’s west side, a couple of us climbed 689 steps up Tracey Hill for an expansive—and very breezy—view of the sheltered harbour.

WHALE WATCHING IN NEWFOUNDLAND

Back on Newfoundland, we continued north up the Viking Trail to where the road meets the saltwater at St. Lunaire-Griquet.

Clad in flotation suits and looking like a waddle of orange penguins, we marched into Zodiacs with local tour operator, Dark Tickle Expeditions, and headed out into the heart of Iceberg Alley. Operating from mid May to Oct.1, the company runs public tours (private charters are also available) for viewing icebergs, whales, dolphins or birds.

Peak viewing season for icebergs is typically from late May to early July for icebergs, early June to late August for humpbacks, minke and fin whales, late July to late September for Atlantic white beaked dolphins and early June to mid-August for Arctic terns, guillemots and kittiwakes.

We circled a massive one glistening in the sunshine, revealing contoured blue and white striations.

While zooming out to another unique berg, guide Mo Hyduk, declared “I think we have whales, people!”

Motoring up the coast, we watched in awe as two humpbacks fed in White Cape Harbour, one breaching in front of us.

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF VIKINGS

Continuing even further north up the Great Northern Peninsula, L’Anse aux Meadows National Historic Site and UNESCO World Heritage Site —remains of an 11th century basecamp—depict the Vikings earliest landing on North America about one thousand years ago.

The visitor centre leads you through the tales of exiled murderers and Viking explorers who came from Greenland to establish an outpost. While the centre is full of intriguing artifacts—such as Icelandic fire starters and bronze cloak pins—the Viking encampment in the distance beckoned. This place at the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula felt like the end of the world.

Past the low berms—remains of what would have been sod dwellings—a large, reconstructed sod hall is filled with weapons and sheepskins. Viking interpreters sat around the fire, telling stories while crafters wove sailcloth and spun wool.

History in Newfoundland and Labrador, whether cultural or geological, is captivating. Being outdoors at these sites, however—walking a windswept point, climbing ancient granite, or cruising a sheltered bay—was what entrenched me fully in the experience. And what made the Great Northern Peninsula memorable.

This story first appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the digital magazine. Click here to subscribe to the print magazine.

Santa Monica: California’s cool

November 27, 2024 No Comments

Just after the sun comes up, surfers dash down the long, sandy stretch of beach and launch their boards into the water, as wave after wave of runners with tanned shoulders and coordinated outfits prance down the boardwalk behind.

Some push strollers, some hold dog leashes, and others throw up a peace sign and offer a smile to passersby. 

Located west of downtown Los Angeles, Santa Monica is a coastal city known for its famed Santa Monica Pier and Pacific Park, which features multiple oceanfront dining venues, midway games and riveting rides, including the first-ever solar-powered ferris wheel and a rollercoaster.

Home to 95,000 residents, the city is also a hub for health and wellness enthusiasts. Just south of the pier, you’ll find the Original Muscle Beach—an outdoor gym that opened in the 1930s that’s decked out with aerial ropes, parallel bars, travelling rings and swings.

Originally intended for use by acrobats, gymnasts and wrestlers, now, at any hour of the day, it’s not uncommon to see people young and old, doing everything from tight-rope walking to acro yoga, aerial rope tricks and meditation. In 1952, Muscle Beach Venice, a 20-minute walk from the Santa Monica Muscle Beach, was opened, and became the training grounds for some of the greatest bodybuilders of all time, including Arnold Schwarzenegger and Lou Ferrigno.

 “In Santa Monica, you can do whatever you want to do, and be whoever you want to be.”

Pedalling on my e-bike alongside my guide Erik Hines, from Bikes and Hikes LA, I watch as he effortlessly interacts with everyone we pass—the vendor selling artwork spread out on a picnic blanket; the man blasting Biggie from a stereo; the couple sitting on the grass as the sun sets over Santa Monica Beach.

“The thing I love most about Santa Monica is that you can wander down to the beach any time of day and leave with a handful of new friends,” he says, noting that he’s lived in several other places, but always finds his way back.

“In Santa Monica, you can do whatever you want to do, and be whoever you want to be,” he adds, right as a man on rollerblades wearing a cowboy hat saunters by singing opera and a woman with bright purple lipstick and a faux fur coat pushes two Pomeranian pups in a stroller.

Off the beach and the boardwalk, Santa Monica is also well-known for its restaurant and bar scene, as well as its shopping. Largely influenced by coastal Mediterranean and Mexican diets, Santa Monica is home to two Michelin-star and 14 Michelin-recommended restaurants and countless other options ranging from mom n’ pop shops to food trucks, cafes and contemporary eateries that often specialize in seafood and seasonal farm-to-table dishes. Most establishments do happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m., and bars shut down by 2 a.m.

For those looking to spend, Santa Monica has three main shopping districts. The Downtown District is where you’ll find Third Street Promenade, an outdoor pedestrian-only area stretching three blocks that carries a mix of retail stores and dining.

At the southern end of the Promenade you’ll find Santa Monica Place, which is another outdoor shopping district, but home to higher end brands, as well as department stores like Nordstrom and Bloomingdale’s. In the city’s north end, Montana Ave. promises upscale shopping from luxury boutiques, restaurants, and specialty shops.

This article first appeared in the winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full story, click here. To subscribe to the print magazine, click here.

72 hours in Baja California Sur

November 25, 2024 No Comments

Christine Roberti heads to the northwest Mexican state of Baja California Sur, stopping in the tiny coastal town of Todos Santos and the state capital of La Paz for grey whale watching, taco tasting and a whole lot of lazing around.

At night, I burrowed into the folds of the duvet on my king-sized bed and listened to the roar of the surf as it barrelled to shore across the Pacific. I left the sliding glass door to the terrace open, where a salty breeze made the gauzy curtains dance.

Tiny stars, my only night light, blinked through the inky black sky over the ocean, and when morning came, tangerine sunlight snuck across my pillow.

I resisted the urge to tear the covers off and slug back a cup of dark roast, like I do most days once 6:30 a.m. comes. In Baja California, as I learned over the course of three days, life is meant to be savoured slowly.

Todos Santos, Baja California Sur, Mexico, is a sleepy town tucked away on the Pacific coast of Mexico’s Baja California Peninsula. An hour’s drive from Los Cabos’ touristy Cabo San Lucas district, people come to Todos Santos to appreciate local art, enjoy top-notch gastronomy, surf the world-class breaks, and revel in gorgeous landscapes that include the overarching backdrop of the Sierra de la Laguna mountain range. In La Paz, visitors come for wild encounters with grey whales and whale sharks, beautiful beaches and vibrant nightlife.

DAY ONE

Start the day early, with a walking tour of Todos Santos, a designated pueblos magicos. Pueblos magicos (magic towns) are a designation provided by the Mexican government, awarded to select destinations for their exemplary showcase of authentic Mexican culture, be it through stunning architectural wonders, historical significance or natural beauty.

Todos Santos is one of roughly 180 pueblos magicos in Mexico, and it’s easy to see why.

Founded by missionaries in 1724, Todos Santos is a quiet town with a vibrant personality. It’s where artists, dreamers and surfers collide; rainbow-coloured bunting is strung through the streets, music lulls passerby from tiny shops selling everything from hand-fired ceramics to oil paintings, and a handful of restaurants promote fresh-caught seafood specialties on sidewalk menus. Stop for lunch at Oystera, a chic oyster bar with a phenomenal outdoor dining terrace, and arguably some of the best ceviche and limey margaritas in Southern Baja. 

DAY TWO

Drive an hour north and explore the capital city of La Paz for the day. Home to approximately a quarter of a million residents, there’s no shortage of things to do downtown, which is flanked by a bustling waterfront boardwalk known as the Malecón. The perfect meeting point, the Malecón is lined with bars, fusion restaurants and contemporary art sculptures.

Strolling through La Paz, you’re bound to get hungry. Embarking on your own taco tour is a great way to see the town’s culinary variety—and excellence. At Palapa Hermanos Gonzalez, you can’t go wrong with an authentic Baja fish taco—two meaty hunks of perfectly golden, battered fish are topped with chopped red onion, tomato and cilantro and drizzled with mayonnaise. Just down the street at Claro Fish Jr.’s, you can order anything from deep-fried coconut shrimp tacos to stingray.

DAY THREE

Grey whale migration peaks in Baja from January through March, but you can still count on seeing a pod from late December through April. Puerto Chale, a two-hour drive from La Paz, is a quiet fishing community on the Pacific Ocean, and the closest spot to the city for spotting grey whales. Curious and friendly, grey whales have been known to swim at surface-level directly beneath the tour boats, making for a breathtaking encounter.

Along the way, you can also spot sleeping sea lions, playful sea otters and migratory birds. For another unique aquatic experience, snorkel with whale sharks in the El Mogote peninsula, which is 15 minutes from the Bay of La Paz. Despite their size (some reach 60 ft. in length), these gentle, toothless giants are actually quite timid, and neither a shark, nor a whale—they’re actually a fish! 

This story first appeared in the Winter 2024 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the full story. Click here to subscribe to the print magazine.