Our guide to exploring the best of Rome by day and night

With a history spanning 2,775 years, Rome is loaded with impressive ancient architecture seemingly around every corner. While the sights continue to lure in international visitors, Italy’s capital city is also known for its vibrant food scene, culture and nightlife.

“The Eternal City is just that – eternal and timeless in its appeal, as it continues to exude more than 2,000 years of history and culture,” guided tour operator Tauck’s product manager, Brenda MacKellar, who designs and oversees the tour operator’s itineraries in Italy, tells Offshore. “One can encounter ancient ruins in an amazing array of places — at the Roman Forum or one of the many other well-known archeological sites throughout the city, or in completely unexpected places – for example, underneath a church.”

Along with iconic spots, here are some surefire ways to ensure a memorable visit to The Eternal City. 

DAY

PHOTO SPOTS

For a unique view of St. Peter’s Basilica, head to the Aventine Keyhole on the top of Aventine Hill. The unassuming door gives way to a perfectly framed view of the basilica’s dome. Many visitors come to take a photo through the keyhole, but it’s also possible to enter the gardens with a booked appointment through the Priory of Knights of Malta.

For those who keep track of places they’ve visited, the area and the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of Saint John of Jerusalem, of Rhodes and of Malta, located down the road from the Spanish Steps, have rights of extraterritoriality. This means that those who visit either spot, along with the Vatican City during an Italian voyage, can add three destinations to their repertoire or set foot in three separate destinations in one day.

While in the Vatican, one of the best views of Rome is from the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica. It’s €8 to climb to the top by foot or €10 for the elevator ride so we recommend splurging on the lift.

STROLL

To many first time visitors, Rome can seem like an enormous, sprawling city. However, it’s far more walkable than many realize.

“I love to take a leisurely passeggiata (stroll) through the city centre that takes in so many splendid sites, such as Piazza di Spagna, the Pantheon — perhaps the most well preserved of the city’s ancient buildings — or the Piazza del Popolo,” says MacKellar, who spent five years living in Rome. “Along the way, I try to step inside some of Rome’s wonderful churches, like San Luigi dei Francesi where you can see no less than three amazing Caravaggio paintings. In a very real sense, Rome is a living museum.”

STAY

For a remarkable stay, check into Palazzo Dama, a boutique property set in a former noble palace that once served as the residence of the Malaspinas, a family that hosted high-society gatherings for dignitaries, diplomats, aristocrats, and the cultural elite.

The elegant hotel features 29 guestrooms and suites with marble bathrooms, mere steps away from Piazza del Popolo and a short walk to other attractions like The Spanish Steps and The Trevi Fountain. From handwritten notes delivered during turndown service featuring the weather for the next day to a custom pillow menu, the hotel focuses on providing elevated service.

Stand out features include crystal chandeliers, a picturesque pool and secluded indoor and outdoor spots to chill and dine. Palazzo Dama is a member of Preferred Hotels & Resorts’ L.V.X. portfolio of luxury properties known for providing exclusive service in unique settings. To escape the heat during a hot summer’s day, we recommend hitting the outdoor pool for an afternoon dip.

NIGHT

SUNSET

While Aperol Spritz has become a trendy drink of choice for cocktail hour in Canada, Italy’s bars boast many different varieties like the Limoncello Spritz and the Hugo Spritz (made with an elderflower liqueur such as St. Germain). 

“After your passeggiata, take advantage of the city’s vibrant café culture and kick back with an aperitivo drink and light snack in the early evening,” says MacKellar. “It’s a wonderful opportunity to savour Rome’s charms, enjoy wonderful people watching, or simply relax before meeting friends for dinner in one of the city’s incredible restaurants.”

There are many hot spots to view the sunset for aperitivo hour such as the rooftop bar Terrace Les Etoiles and the Terrazza Borromini featuring spectacular 360 degree views over Rome, or Aroma, a one-star Michelin restaurant overlooking the Colosseum. 

DINE

Overall, Italy is renowned for its food scene and Rome does not disappoint. 

Cacio e pepe is a symbol of Rome – like the Colosseum — it’s an institution. This typically Roman pasta dish goes back to ancient times,” says Irma Berlingieri, manager, product development at Air Canada Vacations. “In their sacks, local shepherds would carry cacio cheese made from sheep’s milk, pepper, and dried spaghetti.”

To try this classic pasta dish made with cheese and black pepper, Berlingieri suggests Settimo Roman Cuisine & Terrace, Osteria Zi’Umberto or Felice A Testaccio. Reservations are recommended as popular spots book up quickly. 

“Italy’s capital also calls for carbonara, a deliciously egg-based pasta with pancetta or guanciale (cured pork jowl) and pecorino romano cheese,” she adds. “Save space for an order of the seasonal carciofo alla giudia, Rome’s famous deep-fried, Jewish-style artichokes, and snack on supplì, fried rice balls usually stuffed with tomato sauce, mozzarella and meat.”

BEAT THE CROWDS

Rome also boasts gorgeous Baroque architecture and amazing fountains. “Trevi Fountain is perhaps the best known, but a personal favourite is Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers in Piazza Navona,” says MacKellar.

Beat some of the crowds by visiting the fountains at night with a gelato or a wine in hand, instead of during the day when many cruise ships are in port. Gelato shops are open late so this treat isn’t just for daytime. The Nutella and Kinder flavours are hard to beat. 

“In addition to delicious food, Rome has historical sites everywhere you turn,” adds Berlingieri. “Walking the small streets is the best way to find cafés, gelato shops or small typical cuisine restaurants around every corner. Taking advantage of a hop-on hop-off is the fastest way to cover a lot of ground exploring the surroundings at every stop.”

This article first appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. Click here to read the digital magazine.

Island hopping in St. Vincent and the Grenadines

It’s breakfast time at Young Island Resort, a 13-acre private island just offshore of St. Vincent, and I’ve requested one of the house specialties: Creole French toast on homemade cinnamon bread. 

“What we are using is our very famous rum — the St. Vincent strong rum — and it’s very lethal,” my server Donovan says with a smile as he pours the rum over the coconut shavings topping the French toast, lights a match, holds it close to the bread and stands on watch as the rum bursts into flames. “Voila!” To extinguish the fire, I drench the plate with a healthy pour of maple syrup. I then proceed to cut into it with anticipation. Beachside breakfast is served! 

When it comes to the French toast at Young Island Resort, guests have plenty of options. While the homemade bread is a house specialty, they can opt for other breads, too, including homemade coconut bread or banana bread. “We’re known for our bread,” adds general manager, Bianca Porter. “When I’m on the road guests will tell me, ‘we always remember the bread!’”

As I found out, the Sunset Very Strong Rum used in the French toast is an overproof 84.5% alc/vol white rum which can only be consumed in destination as 70% ABV is the legal limit before it’s considered a flammable flight risk. Perhaps this is where Johnny Depp drew inspiration for the rum-loving pirate he played, Captain Jack Sparrow, in Pirates of the Caribbean—Young Island Resort, with its 29 unique beach and hillside cottages, actually housed the cast of the film. 

Keeping out the Kardashians

At Petit St. Vincent, a 115-acre private island resort on the southern tip of the Grenadines, room service runs a little bit differently than at your standard Caribbean resorts. Instead of dialing down to the desk for my order, I take a menu form from my bedroom, fill it out and place the sheet of paper in the wooden mailbox slot at the end of the driveway to my secluded villa. Then, to signal the attention of the staff, I raise up the small yellow flag before heading back inside. 

The next day at exactly the requested time of 8 a.m., one of the resort’s butlers rings the bell outside of my villa and sets up the eggs benedict feast on the private cliffside balcony. Each comes complete with a hammock, stocked mini bar and a jar of homemade cookies.

Butler service is included at Petit St. Vincent for no additional charge. There are 22 one-and-two bedroom cottages, each equipped with one red and one yellow flag, which communicate various service requests to staff.

“Red, when that’s raised up to the top, it means do not disturb; nobody comes to the cottage. The yellow flag is used for anything else, — breakfast, lunch and dinner — if you run out of wine again and want some more wine, and it can go up as many times during the day as you like,” explains Petit St. Vincent’s general manager, Matt Semark, who added that the system is also set up to deliver lunch at the various beach areas around the island. 

Sand and sun

Naturally, I also test the effectiveness of this process during a leisurely afternoon soaking up the sun on a secluded stretch of beach. Shortly after filling out our lunch order, two servers approached my group’s chaises. They’re carrying our meals, along with a bottle of sauvignon blanc in a wine chiller and our ice cream preserved in chilled containers so it doesn’t melt by the time we get to dessert.

“The really cool thing about the Grenadines and St. Vincent is that we’re all very different in style. We all offer slightly different experiences,” Semark notes. “For us, it’s more about privacy, seclusion, space and hiding away. It’s a very personalized experience. We have a very long average length of stay and we have a 63 per cent return rate annually.”

Although the private island resort with 22 cottages appeals to celebrities like Ed Sheeran — who has posted about staying there so he’s allowed to talk about it — Semark explains that they’re very discreet about their clientele and provide top-notch service in an understated way.

“We’ve turned the Kardashians away five times. We want to stay low key,” he says. “We’re an unpretentious luxury.”

The Caribbean you’re looking for 

 Described as a throwback to the Caribbean before mass tourism, the destination is the antithesis to other Caribbean countries pushing to grow their visitor arrivals. 

From the purposeful lack of TVs in many hotel rooms across the destination, to an eye-catching ‘anti-chain’ food vendor with the words Bequia Pizza Hut hand painted across the front, the charm of St. Vincent and the Grenadines is its authentic old world Caribbean vibe. 

“Our tagline is the Caribbean you’re looking for… we like to think of St. Vincent and the Grenadines as the Caribbean that’s completely untouched and unspoiled, with character and charm,” says Glenn Beache, CEO of the St. Vincent and The Grenadines Tourism Authority. “We’re not a mass tourism destination nor do we want to be. We want to maintain what makes us special.”

Made up of 32 islands and cays, the destination features diverse islands like Young Island, Bequia, Mustique, Canouan, Mayreau, Union Island, Palm Island and Petit St. Vincent — as well as The Tobago Cays, a horseshoe shaped reef with five deserted islets.

“We like to keep it hidden. It’s a place we like to keep secret. We don’t talk about it too much,” explains Batu Erem, the general manager for Soho Beach House Canouan, which opened in 2021. “What we like to tailor, what we like to share is that this is your rustic, rugged Robin Crusoe-y type of experience that you’re not going to get in the Northern Leeward islands but it still exists here. It’s casual wellness. This is the place that you come to unplug, this is the place where you come to rejuvenate. There’s no TV in the rooms. This is that little haven and that’s why we like to keep it a secret. It’s like being back in time in the old Caribbean, and that’s what we try to preserve here.”

Soho Beach House Canouan is the only Caribbean outpost for Soho House, which typically operates on a membership-only basis. However, this boutique 40-bedroom property on Grand Bay Beach is open to non-member bookings as well. One of the perks of a stay here is that guests get to keep the travel sized skincare products in each room.

Similarly, at the largest of the Grenadine islands, Bequia Beach Hotel’s general manager Elisabeth Alleyne says she’s often rejected when asking guests for an online review to spread the word about the hotel. 

“I asked a guest to give us a TripAdvisor review and they said ‘No. I don’t want people to find out about it,’” she says. “We want customers to come here and see the genuine part, that it can be a little rustic, we need to keep that. I think it’s the way the whole country is built – that it’s still very genuine. It’s more about the people than the flashy industry.”

The family-owned property is yet another that doesn’t have TVs in the room so that guests are focused on connecting with each other and the destination. 

“Each island has its own charm; it’s a different vibe wherever you go,” sums up Marlon Joseph, hospitality officer, SVGTA. “But it’s all chill.”

This story first appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. For the full version, click here to read the digital magazine. 

Four of the best staycations to have this autumn

While summer may have quietly slipped away, most nights in September and October are still favourable enough to sit outside.

Recognizing that summer in Canada is indeed too short, many hotels and resorts stay open through autumn, with a number of unique packages and experiences suited to the new season.

Whether you’re looking for a place to stay over the Thanksgiving long weekend, or simply want one last road trip retreat before the leaves drop for good, here are four fantastic properties to discover in Ontario and New York state.

Rawley Resort | Port Severn, ON

Just one-and-a-half hours from Toronto, Rawley Resort is a slice of paradise hiding out in Georgian Bay. Formerly an old hunting lodge used during the height of pine logging in the region, this year marks the resort’s 100th birthday.

To celebrate the occasion, Rawley Resort  redesigned their luxurious Lighthouse45 Restaurant — including a complete makeover of its menu, featuring delicious farm-to-table eats with foraged ingredients. To guide the creation of the new menu, Rawley has recruited Chef Chris Locke, formerly of Toronto’s first farm-to-table restaurant, Marben. Enjoy live music in the dining room every Thursday to Sunday, or opt to dine al fresco and watch the sun go down. 

Guests can choose to stay in spacious suites with king bed options, walkout terraces (these are pet-friendly) or two-level waterside lofts, complete with a private upper balcony.

Looking for a bit of added elegance? Request to have a bottle of chilled champagne and decadent chocolate covered strawberries brought to your room for $60. Rawley Resort is also home to an outstanding spa that offers a number of treatments, but their signature service is the facials. Opt for a gemstone facial ($135) or try out a non-surgical facelift with one of the RMD structural remodeling facial treatments, done using electrotherapy technologies.

Rawley Resort is open for booking early May through early October.

Wander the Resort | Bloomfield, ON

Set on the shores of Lake Ontario, Wander the Resort is a sophisticated Canadian cottage experience quite like no other. Located in Prince Edward County, about two hours from Toronto, Wander is home to just 10 dreamy cabins, all decked out in a Nordic aesthetic. From pool and lakeside cabins to a massive A-frame treehouse, their interiors range in size from 500 to 1,400 square feet and feature homey accents, like sheepskin rugs and cool wooden decor.

Thoughtful amenities, like handcrafted bath and shower products, an indoor and an outdoor gas fireplace, organic cotton linens and heated floors make this spot feel like your home away from home for the weekend.

The lakeside restaurant on site, Gather, offers a Mediterranean-inspired menu using locally sourced ingredients, and is open for weekend brunch, as well as breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Home to some of the province’s most stunning fall foliage, Prince Edward County is packed with outdoor opportunities, including sustainable farm visits, vineyard tastings, microbreweries and fall fairs. Guests who book at Wander from Sept. 17 to Oct. 19 can receive a $100 food and beverage credit to be used at Gather.

Chautauqua Harbor Hotel | Celoron, NY

Chautauqua Harbor Hotel is a luxury, four-season waterfront resort on the shores of Lake Chautauqua  in the state of New York. Independently owned and operated, the property features generously-sized guestrooms and suites, many of which boast panoramic lake views and balconies, which make for the perfect autumn evening with the addition of a glass of wine.

At the lively Carousel Bar, guests can enjoy wood-fired pizzas and craft beers, while at the Lake House Tap & Grill, American fare and al fresco dining can be enjoyed on the patio. 

Plenty of other amenities, like several indoor and outdoor pools, fire pits and an abundance of nature for outdoor activities make Chautauqua Harbor a fantastic place to visit year-round. Part of Lake Erie wine country, Chautauqua County is the largest grape-cultivating county outside of California, and is home to a number of vineyards and wineries that offer unique tastings and award-winning wines.

1000 Islands Harbor Hotel | Clayton, NY

Stationed on the St. Lawrence River, 1000 Islands Harbor Hotel is the only AAA Four Diamond Hotel in the 1000 Islands region. It offers 105 handsomely appointed guest rooms and suites, many with panoramic river views and balconies.

There’s also an indoor heated pool and hot tub and a state-of-the-art fitness centre for guests. As the nights get cooler, The Riverside Patio is the perfect spot to enjoy a glass of wine or a pint around one of the outdoor fire pits. Fine dining is also offered at the Seaway Grille and the 1000 Islands Bar. 

Just in time for autumn, the annual Apple Days event returns from Sept. 5 to Oct. 15. Celebrating apple-picking season in Upstate New York, visitors can enjoy a plethora of seasonal amenities, such as apples and fresh cider at check-in, and special menu items featuring delicious apple-inspired dishes and signature cocktails. Guests will receive a list of nearby orchards they can visit for apple picking.

Riding the rails with Rocky Mountaineer

“Quick! Look out the window,” called my seatmate, Pam.

“What was it?” I asked, simultaneously getting up from my heated, plush leather reclining chair, which was quickly proving to be a necessary add-on feature to this journey. Despite being the end of July, the temperature outside this morning was winning against all of the clothes I’d brought from Toronto.

“I think deer maybe, or a wolf? Or it could have been a moose,” Pam pondered, groggy from an early start combined with still adjusting to the time change from her home in England.

“I didn’t see it!” I said, lowering my camera, knowing that here in the belly of the Canadian Rockies, all three wildlife sightings were possible. “Did anyone catch what it was?”

“It was an elephant! It was definitely an elephant!” hollered Charlie from his seat in front of me, giddy from an impromptu morning cocktail, but also revelling in the tight-knit comradery our little group seated at the back of the train had formed just one day prior.

As laughter rocked the back of the coach, I shifted my focus to my surroundings, sank back, and enjoyed the start of my adventure aboard Canada’s only luxury rail-tour company, Rocky Mountaineer. 

All aboard

My three-day trip started the day before, when I caught a flight from Toronto to Vancouver. The next day, I set out at 6 a.m. from the company’s private rail station. Rocky Mountaineer offers its guests two service levels onboard: GoldLeaf and SilverLeaf. 

Both top-notch options, my ticket was in the GoldLeaf coach, and as I walked the red carpet to board, I quickly realized why it lived up to its name. Travellers who opt for GoldLeaf service are seated in a spacious, bi-level glass dome coach complete with oversized glass dome windows and a glass roof. Unlike most airplane cabins, the luxurious seats provide ample legroom, even allowing for reclination.

On the contrary, SilverLeaf guests ride on a single-level glass dome coach with full-size glass windows. The major difference—and it’s a big one—is the sweeping outdoor viewing platform that allows for panoramic views of Western Canada while the train is in motion, where you’ll gawk at everything from larger-than-life mountains, to rushing rivers and soaring bald eagles, all without trace of a single other person or vehicle.

For more than 30 years, Rocky Mountaineer has been transporting travellers through the Canadian provinces of British Columbia and Alberta and, more recently, through the U.S. states of Utah and Colorado. The company began in 1990 with two routes: First Passage to the West (running between Vancouver and Lake Louise/Banff via Kamloops) and Journey Through the Clouds (between Vancouver and Jasper via Kamloops). 

By 2006, a third route, Rainforest to Gold Rush, was added to showcase the rarely seen interior and northernmost parts of British Columbia. The Canadian-owned company offers dozens of trips to suit any vacation style and trip lengths can range anywhere from a short stint of one to three days to upwards of 10 to 12 days. 

Short Journeys start at roughly $2,000 per person and allow for two days of exploration of the Canadian Rockies or the American Southwest. Circle Journeys let you combine two different rail routes, like the eight-night Lake Louise Circle Journey, or the 12-night Best of the Rockies Circle Journey, which does a complete loop of Vancouver, Kamloops, Banff, Lake Louise, Jasper, Quesnel and Whistler. Circle Journeys begin at $6,000 per person. Rockies Highlights, curated to show off the best views of the West, offer nine unique rail packaged adventures that start at around $3,400 per person.

Travel back in time

First Passage to the West, the trip I took, is the company’s flagship route. It continues to be one of the most popular. Retracing the historic Canadian Pacific Railway, which originally connected British Columbia to the rest of Canada more than 125 years ago, this slowed-down, tranquil journey begins by following the Fraser River and the surrounding Fraser Valley. The journey from Vancouver to Kamloops covered a whopping 460 kilometres in the first day and took roughly seven hours to complete, during which I had plenty of breathtaking photo opportunities.

At the height of summer in the Rockies, the boreal forest was undeniably green, thanks in part to Vancouver’s temperate rainforest.

During this leg of the journey, as the train followed the ebb and flow of the Fraser River, time stood still as we passed by sleepy towns and endless mountain backdrops straight out of a postcard. 

At the halfway point between Vancouver and Kamloops, we descended upon one of the top attractions on this route, the infamous Hell’s Gate canyon, suspended 36.8 kilometres above the town of Yale. Named in 1808 by Canadian explorer and fur trader Simon Fraser, Hell’s Gate is a narrow passage of towering rock and rapids so furious that a page from Fraser’s diary describes it as “…a place where no human should venture, for surely these are the gates of Hell.”

Hell's Gate canyon

Further along the journey, another geological wonder, Rainbow Canyon, appeared just past Lytton, which is where the Fraser River becomes the Thompson River. A pop of colour bled into the rockface, Rainbow Canyon gets its name from the mineral deposits in the soil: copper turns green and purple when oxidized, iron paints the ground a burnt orange and red, while sulphur deposits leave streaks of brilliant yellow.

As we continued our journey to Kamloops, the landscape gave way from emerald green to beige, as the rolling valleys were replaced by dusty desert soil and hearty wild sage brush. With a semi-arid climate, Kamloops is also home to a series of rock and clay formations called hoodoos, which formed at the end of the last ice age. Spending an overnight in Kamloops, the second day of the journey took us through the glittering Shuswap Lakes region, which, with its sparkling lakes and rivers was a stark contrast to the dry and sparsely-treed South Thompson River valley we’d left behind. 

The final stretch of our journey from Kamloops to our end destination in Banff encompassed a 497-kilometre journey. As we passed through Salmon Arm and Revelstoke, just before Golden, we encountered the Stoney Creek Bridge. Located on the eastern slopes of Mount Tupper, the original wooden bridge was replaced in 1893 by a steel arch. By 1929, the weight from the new locomotives was so great that CP Rail was forced to redo the bridge a second time. Due to the terrain around the bridge, no other foundation could be used and so the new bridge was built directly on top of the old one. The new bridge, which remains in use today, spans 484 feet and hovers 295 feet above the creek bed. 

Rainbow Canyon

Just past Field, B.C., we came upon the famous Spiral Tunnels. During the first 23 years that the Canadian Pacific Rail was in service, one of its weakest links was the “Big Hill”, a 13-kilometre stretch between the towns of Field and Hector. Built in 1884, the route was supposed to be temporary, because not only was it an incredibly dangerous run, but it caused enormous repair costs. In 1907, construction started on the Spiral Tunnels. Designed after a similar system in Switzerland, the project cost $1 million dollars and took 1,000 men 20 months to complete. As the train entered the tunnel, we shot into pitch blackness for several minutes. The Upper Spiral tunnel follows Cathedral Mountain, during which it turns 290 degrees and emerges 50 feet higher than its entrance. The Lower Spiral tunnels through Mount Ogden and also turns 230 degrees and comes out 56 feet higher than its starting point. The experience ultimately sees riders double back twice, while crossing the river twice as well, which, from the glass coach of the train, was visible on the opposite side of the coach once the tunnels ended. 

Though the landscape never swayed from trees, rivers and mountains, at no point did I ever close my eyes, both afraid of missing out on spotting my first-ever moose, but also because I was enjoying every minute of the ride. For the first time in as long as I could remember, I was fully present in my surroundings, unbothered and undistracted by the consistent pile of work emails and notifications that usually bombarded my phone—there’s no WiFi onboard the train, and cell phone service is limited, which lets you disconnect and lose yourself in the journey, not to mention, connect with your host and fellow passengers.

Each route comes equipped with a dedicated on-board host who, through impeccable storytelling, expert knowledge and hospitable service, ensures your journey is as comfortable as it is memorable. 

Savour the journey

On both mornings, my journey onboard started with a hot cup of coffee and a delicious treat, including a homemade lemon loaf baked by one of the chefs that same day. 

For GoldLeaf guests on Canadian routes, breakfast and lunch are served in a separate dining room coach with an exquisite menu helmed by Executive Chef Kaelhub Cudmore. Born and raised on Vancouver Island, Cudmore honed his skills and passion for the culinary industry at an early age. 

He has previously worked at Victoria’s iconic Fairmont Empress Hotel and spent nearly a decade as part of the team developing the world-renowned Clayoquot Wilderness Resort into the exclusive Relais & Chateaux property it is today. He sailed aboard the top luxury cruise line, Seabourn, as a leader in the Thomas Keller program and has made guest chef appearances in exclusive resorts and destinations. 

With a deep passion for not only food but travel, experiential tourism became Cudmore’s home as he worked through various locations offering everything from salmon fishing to heli-skiing. As an “ingredient-driven chef,” he puts high-quality local ingredients at the forefront of his menu, supporting local agriculture and artisans in his kitchen while creating a connection between food and land.

“I want to reflect the scenery that guests see outside and bring it inside onto their plates,” says Cudmore. This ethos is reflected in the meals he’s created for Rocky Mountaineer, from iconic Canadian flavours and ingredients like the Alberta beef short rib, Dungeness crab-stuffed ravioli and Lois Lake steelhead trout, to the handmade pasta from Port Moody, bee pollen from Surrey and macarons from Granville Island that are incorporated into additional onboard snacks and meals. “Guests can see where their food comes from while they enjoy their journey,” he adds.

As with the culinary program, Rocky Mountaineer’s wine program reflects the Canadian landscape that guests can experience during their journey, with a robust selection of wine from British Columbia’s most revered wineries. All alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages including fresh juices, coffee and tea are also included and delivered to your seat in GoldLeaf coaches. 

This story first appeared in the Fall 2023 issue of OFFSHORE. To read the full digital version, click here

Holland America Line hits all the high notes, even after 150 years at sea

The stage lights dim as musicians Patrick Sharrow and Jax Hollow belt out the last line to Semisonic’s 1998 hit song, Closing Time.

With the lyrics “One last call for alcohol, so finish your whiskey or beer; Closing time, you don’t have to go home, but you can’t stay here,” the popular sing-along tune has become the unofficial anthem for the last song of the night at bars across North America. 

But not here, not tonight.

“One more song! One more song!” I shout, joining in unison with the other live music fans in the crowd. Moments later, like a typical encore, the lights turn on again and the band starts to play the opening riff to Start Me Up by The Rolling Stones. Only I’m not in a typical music venue — I’m aboard Holland America Line’s Rotterdam in the Rolling Stone Rock Room, where a nightly band plays rock n’ roll hits from Rolling Stone magazine’s top song lists.

As part of the ship’s Music Walk, also available on other ships like Nieuw Statendam and Koningsdam, when one set ends, another starts across the way at Billboard Onboard, where two singers are seated at duelling pianos to play chart-topping pop songs. Some guests shuffle between stages to remain close to the action at all times, while others hold firm in their favourite venue, listening to the music in between sets from afar while the attentive waitstaff comes to serve drinks and cocktails. 

When they’re not playing as part of the cover band, Sharrow and Hollow are recording artists embarking on tours across North America. That’s an example of the calibre of talent that can be found on these stages. 

Not into pop and rock? Other live music venues include Lincoln Center Stage, a great fit for those who like classical music, and the B.B. King’s Blues Club, which like the name indicates, is a hotspot for amazing blues songs that get the crowd moving.

Celebrating 150 years

On April 18, 2023, Holland America Line celebrated its 150th anniversary while the flagship Rotterdam was docked in its namesake city in The Netherlands, following a trans-atlantic sailing from Fort Lauderdale, Florida. The commemorative event was held in the former headquarters for the cruise line, today the Hotel New York, and brought together VIPs like descendants of the original founders of the business and Princess Margriet of the Netherlands.

Making it one of the oldest cruise lines in the world, Holland America Line has a very interesting history, starting out as a shipping and passenger line, slowly gaining a reputation for safely bringing emigrants from Europe to North America. 

Nearly one million people made the journey to new beginnings and adventures on a Holland America ship — including Albert Einstein, Alfred Hitchcock, Ernest Hemingway and Roald Dahl — to name but a few.

During the First World War, several HAL ships were called upon to carry and transport soldiers. In the Second World War, ships like Nieuw Amsterdam were even converted into troopships, eventually resuming regular operations after being refitted back to passenger ships post war.

No stranger to innovation, at the height of the prohibition the cruise line offered what could be dubbed the original booze cruise — taking passengers into international waters from New York City to serve alcohol. Today, the cocktail menu at Half Moon Bar features a drink called the Three Mile Run, in honour of those prohibition days.

Clockwise, from L to R: SS Rotterdam passengers circa 1929; cover art for first-class guest handbook; SS Nieuw Amsterdam; SS Waterman departs Wileminakada in Rotterdam, circa 1950s

Holland America Line’s evolution into a cruise holiday provider plays out during an evening staged presentation called Origin Story, which is put on on ships across its fleet. To mark the milestone 150th anniversary, a limited-edition 150th HAL Pils is now available on board in a commemorative can. An exclusive Holland America Line “De Lijn” gin was also created and is used in three new anniversary cocktails: Dutch 150, 150th Martini and 150th Gin and Tonic.

Over the course of this year, 48 special Heritage Cruises are also underway, which focus on ports that played a significant role in the brand’s history. Fun elements on these sailings include a famed orange party where all guests dress in orange to celebrate the company’s Dutch heritage, and a Throwback Happy Hour featuring select drinks priced as low as 75 cents.

A taste of Oslo, Copenhagen and the world 

During my Heritage Cruise from Rotterdam to Amsterdam, the Netherlands, the ports of call visited were Oslo, Norway and Copenhagen, Denmark. There was ample free time in each city to get out and explore. 

Upon arrival in Oslo, I decided to get a picturesque view of the city from above on a bus tour before visiting Vigeland Park, the world’s largest sculpture park by the same artist. Gustav Vigelands’ 200 statues tell the story of the cycle of life, representing different stages of life and how life goes on after death. Highlights include The Monolith, a 46-foot tall piece carved out of granite featuring 121 intertwined human figures, and Sinnataggen, (the angry boy) a statue of an angry boy clenching his fists. The park is free to enter and is visited by more than a million visitors a year.

In Copenhagen I opted for a bicycle excursion, which covered a lot of ground in a short period of time. Highlights included stops at Nyhavn, the picturesque canal street on most postcards of Copenhagen, and seeing cherry blossoms in full bloom by the famous The Little Mermaid statue. As a mainly flat city, it was also easy to explore without having to cycle up any major hills. Watching the ship as it arrives and leaves port is also memorable on this route, passing through fjords and lovely cityscapes. 

From Alaska to the Caribbean to Australia and its roots in Europe, Holland America Line has a wide array of itineraries around the world.

Two notable trips planned for 2025 include a new 133-day The Grand Voyage: Pole-to-Pole sailing that travels south-to-north including Antarctica and the Arctic Circle across five continents, along with a simultaneous 124-day 2025 Grand World Voyage covering six continents on an east-to-west route. Both ships are slated to meet in Barcelona, Spain, for a joint overnight call, bringing the two Grand Voyages together for a celebration on April 24, 2025.

Have twice the fun in Mexico with family-friendly & adults-only options

Relaxation and rejuvenation, or fun in the sun, you decide! 

With its picturesque, turquoise waters, long, white sandy beaches, vibrant nightlife and culture, and a thriving food and drink scene, Mexico has long been a perennial favourite vacation destination for Canadians.

Whether you’re looking for a romantic escape or a fun getaway for the entire family, OFFSHORE recently checked into the adults-only Hyatt Zilara Riviera Maya and the family-friendly Hyatt Ziva Riviera Cancun to find out what you can expect. 

A romantic escape

If head mixologist Misael Ruiz can sum up the concept behind the Social Bar in the main lobby of Hyatt Zilara Riviera Maya using only one word, it’s the word “local.”

“We try to push Mexican local products,” he says in front of a table with multiple bottles of alcohol on display for a cocktail-making demonstration. “One of the secret ingredients we have here is that we make our own blends of salt and sugar.” The margarita, for example, is made using pink pepper, black pepper and Himalayan salt.

“We’re always trying to surprise you,” Ruiz says.

Try your hand at cocktail-making

Twice a week, guests can gather in the lobby to try a taste of the twisted cocktails made from local ingredients, while also attempting their own creations through a hands-on mixology class.

Following a recipe that dates back to 1927 that uses Ancho Reyes Chile, a Mexican herbal liqueur made from a dried form of ripe poblano peppers, Ruiz leads our class through a demonstration on creating a fresh take on a classic Negroni.  

For a lobby bar, the space has an intimate feel to it, but it’s fitting since the resort itself feels more like a boutique property with a total of 291 rooms. “Each hotel or resort has its own personality. This hotel is very unique,” says Anat Rosengaus, associate director of sales at Hyatt Zilara Riviera Maya. “We are surrounded by amazing nature so we always reflect that in the property.”

Captivating for couples

Formerly Secrets Capri Riviera Cancun, the adults-only Hyatt Zilara Riviera Maya resort underwent a major transformation before reopening on Dec. 1, 2022. The makeover includes the addition of 46 swim-out suites, which line the sides of the horseshoe-shaped resort. 

Ideal for couples, the majority of the accommodations are oceanview king suites, but there are also some tropical view suites and higher room categories like six oceanfront junior suite plunge pool king rooms on the beach and a presidential suite spanning more than 1,500 square feet.

In total, the resort is home to nine restaurants, bars and lounges, including an oceanfront restaurant serving up delicious dishes like chorizo queso, fresh guacamole and fish tacos. There’s also a coffee shop offering baked goods and the best gelato I’ve ever tasted outside of Italy (the Ferrero Rocher flavour is a must try). 

From the pool-side swing bar to the striped umbrellas around the main pool, the resort is loaded with Instagrammable moments. The hacienda style resort is set on 1.5 acres of white sand beach roughly 45 minutes from Cancun International Airport. 

Fun in the sun

Complete with a gigantic oceanfront water park with tall slides and ample pools, Hyatt Ziva Riviera Cancun is a great fit for multi-generational getaways appealing to both kids and kids at heart.

Formerly the Secrets Silversands, Hyatt Ziva Riviera Cancun opened in October 2021 and features 438 spacious suites. With nine pools to choose from and a splash zone for kids, the only challenge may be narrowing down where you want to swim for the day. 

Family-friendly vacations

Designed with families in mind, the size of the suites are another unique attribute to the resort. There’s ample space to hang out, with all suites coming in at 668 sq. ft. or larger. Every suite has rainfall showers and spa tubs. 

There are 10 dining options to pick from, like Habaneros, which offers fresh tacos and margaritas with views of the ocean. Hyatt Ziva Riviera Cancun has caught on to the hard seltzer trend, and mini fridges come stocked with local flavours in addition to the typical wine and beer offerings.

Since the property is big, there are many places for adults to escape if they’re craving some downtime. The two-story Zen Spa inspired by pre-Hispanic Mayan culture is a relaxing way to unwind and get pampered with massage services. There is also a dedicated adults-only pool near the spa, and another pool by buildings 10 and 11 that kids rarely use, for a quieter oasis. 

Along with a kid’s club for those aged four to 12, professional babysitting services are offered so that parents can dine out alone for a romantic meal. The hotel is conveniently located just 20 minutes from Cancun International Airport.

—ANN RUPPENSTEIN

For the full story, click HERE to read the digital version in OFFSHORE’s Summer 2023 issue!

Explore new heights in New York City

Let’s hear it for New York! Admiring the city from above is almost a right of passage for every first-time visitor to the world-famous destination.

While the Top of The Rock and the Empire State Building remain two of the most popular ways to participate in this time-honoured tradition, there are also some new ways to feel on top of the world. 

Brave the ASCENT

If you’re not afraid of heights and are looking to capture a memorable, bird’s eye view of NYC, step inside ASCENT, an all-glass enclosed elevator that travels 12 stories outside of SUMMIT One Vanderbilt, a new multi-floor observation and art experience.

Soaring high above the city at 1,210 feet while overlooking the Empire State Building, the elevator quickly inches upwards for an elevated view…for anyone with an Empire State Of Mind. 

Scale the SUMMIT

More than just a regular observation platform offering iconic views of New York City, SUMMIT boasts a variety of unique immersive art installations spread across multiple levels, including a multi-sensory experience from Kenzo Digital featuring silver balloons that float effortlessly through the air, and glass sky boxes that jut outwards to suspend guests 1,063 feet above Madison Avenue.

Much like an après-ski experience, the onsite Après is a bar and cafe that leads to an outdoor terrace where you can experience views from the top with an Aperol Spritz in hand. 

In its first year, SUMMIT helped contribute to NYC’s pandemic recovery by welcoming 1.4 million guests from almost every country in the world.

Here are some of the most rewarding experiences to have in Israel

For a relatively small country, Israel punches above its weight when it comes to the diversity of the experiences on offer.

However, unlike Canada, it’s possible to drive from one end of Israel to the other in only eight hours — not that anyone would since there’s so much to see along the way. Whether you’re looking for unique experiences in the great outdoors or going back in time to explore ancient architecture, here’s a look at how Israel appeals to travellers with a wide range of interests.


For cruisers

As a major cruise hub, the port of Haifa is often the gateway to Israel for many international travellers. Cruise lines like Royal Caribbean International, Celebrity Cruises and MSC Cruises all have Haifa on the itinerary this year. While excursions often focus on attractions outside of the city, the destination itself is also worth exploring.

At the top of the list of things to see are the Bahá’í Gardens, a stunning staircase of nineteen terraces extending all the way up the northern slope of Mount Carmel. The UNESCO World Heritage is a spiritual focal point for Bahá’í pilgrims featuring the golden-domed Shrine of the Báb, giving way to views of Akko in the distance. Israel’s under the radar, third largest city is also home to a German Templar Colony, founded in 1868.

For wellness and relaxation

Look no further than floating in the Dead Sea for the ultimate way to relax while crossing off a bucket list worthy activity in a spot known as the lowest point on earth — 428 metres below sea level — dating back three million years. The waters are believed to have healing powers so be sure to plan time for a lengthy float.

For the social media aficionado, pack a copy of your favourite magazine to personalize the moment. Many resorts in the Ein Bokek Beach area also offer spa services, making it a great choice for a bit of pampering.

For beach life in a city setting, Tel Aviv is an ideal choice. There’s a long stretch of beach (Gordon Beach) right next to many major hotels lined with beach bars and activities like volleyball nets. Even in the winter, temperatures range from 9-17°C. 

For millennials

With a thriving vegan food scene and renowned nightlife with a laid-back vibe, millennials will enjoy Tel Aviv. Those who crave a night out on the town can opt to go bar hopping with a local guide, including free shots and drink specials along the way. The trendy city frequently gets accolades like placing on top 25 lists as the best party city and as a top foodie destination.  

Another riveting option is Jerusalem, which has a vibrant night market and a growing food scene along with its historical side. Head to Thinkers Distillery to sample some locally produced spirits. The Israeli sunset gin is made with hints of strawberry and rose petals. Then head out to experience the nightlife at Machane (sometimes spelt ‘Mahane’) Yehuda Market, which even includes a craft beer bar.

As a city with a 3,000 year old history, there are so many historic and archaeological sites to discover along with modern attractions for culture, arts, music and culinary delights. 

For history buffs

With its Templar tunnels that were only recently discovered and an entire crusader city underneath the current street level, the city of Akko, also known as Acre, is fascinating for architecture and history buffs alike. Explore the excavated parts of the Old City of Akko, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, to get a sense of life over 4,000 years, including the ancient Knights’ Halls of the Hospitaller Fortress.

Akko’s Old City is walled off and remains intact, plus its seaside location makes for many great photo opportunities. Through its storied past, the city was shaped by the Romans, Ottomans, Crusaders, Mamelukes, Byzantines, and British.

Another impressive place to visit in Israel is Beit She’an National Park, an extensive archaeological site dating back 6,000 years with well preserved ruins including a large amphitheatre. So far only one tenth of the ancient city has been excavated. 

Of course, Jerusalem, where the Western Wall and the Church of the Holy Sepulchre are located, and Nazareth, known as Jesus’ hometown, are also a must.

For the outdoorsy type

 

4×4 adventures and take part in many outdoor activities. 

Another natural option is to head to Ein Gedi Nature Reserve to discover waterfalls and hiking trails along massive cliffside formations. The biggest oasis in Israel offers more than nine different hiking trails.

For more information on planning your trip to Israel, click here!

Five of the best cities for luxury shopping

Few destinations can rival the grandeur and allure of metropolitan cities like Paris, New York City, London, Milan and Dubai. 


According to Statista, the luxury goods market in Canada is projected to grow by 2.70 per cent between 2023 and 2028, resulting in a market volume of US$7.87B (CAD $10.7B) by 2028.

Luxury fashion, in particular, dominates the luxury goods market, with travellers going to international lengths to score a great bargain. For those seeking a more refined wardrobe, few destinations can rival the grandeur and allure of metropolitan cities like Paris, New York City, London, Milan and Dubai. 

Milan, Italy

Fashion Week in Milan, Italy may only be held bi-annually in February and September, but strolling through the streets on any given day of the year, you’ll feel as though you’re in a fashion show of your own.

Italian fashion can be traced back to the Renaissance period, as early as the mid 1400’s, when some of Italy’s most famous cities, like Venice, Milan, Florence, Naples and Rome, began producing sought-after textiles like velvet, silk and wool. Italian fashion reached the height of its success in the 1950s and 1960s, when some of the biggest designers and fashion houses were born, including Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Missoni, Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Versace, and Armani among others. 

Milan, a sprawling metropolis in Italy’s northern Lombardy region, is home to 1.3 million people and is an iconic, global destination for luxury fashion and shopping. The Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, located in the same plaza as the breathtaking Duomo di Milano, is Italy’s oldest active shopping centre, having opened in 1877.

Housed in a soaring, four-storey building complete with arched glass ceilings where blue sky peeks through, it’s home to some of the city’s oldest shops, as well as luxury retailers selling everything from haute couture and jewellery, to artworks and books. Of course, any good shopping trip requires a little pick-me-up, and the Galleria’s many restaurants, cafés and bars are sure to do the trick.

Paris, France

Paris, often regarded as the fashion capital of the world, offers a plethora of high-end shopping destinations that cater to luxury enthusiasts. The city’s Golden Triangle, nestled between Avenue Montaigne and the Champs-Élysées, hosts the crème de la crème of fashion houses. Here, haute couture and high-end brands harmoniously coexist, enticing patrons with their meticulous craftsmanship and visionary designs.

You’ll find an exquisite array of prestigious fashion houses such as Chanel, Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Givenchy. The luxurious window displays and opulent boutiques in this area make for an unforgettable shopping experience.

Another must-visit location for luxury shopping in Paris is Le Bon Marché. Located in the chic neighbourhood of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Le Bon Marché is the city’s oldest and most prestigious department store. This shopping mecca offers a wide range of high-end brands, including Gucci, Prada, and Hermès.

From fashion and accessories to home decor and gourmet food, Le Bon Marché showcases an unparalleled selection of luxury goods, all housed within an elegant and stylish environment. Whether you’re looking for the latest designer trends or seeking timeless elegance, Paris has an abundance of luxurious shopping destinations that will surely leave you feeling indulged and inspired.

New York City, U.S.

In the cosmopolitan city that never sleeps, one of the most iconic places to find high-end fashion is Fifth Avenue. Amidst the glittering skyscrapers, luxury enthusiasts find themselves immersed in a world of unparalleled extravagance, as this legendary street is home to some of the world’s most prestigious designer flagship stores, including iconic names such as Tiffany & Co., Bergdorf Goodman, Saks Fifth Avenue and Louis Vuitton. 

SoHo, another trendy neighbourhood that’s known for its cobblestone streets and cast-iron buildings, houses a variety of high-end boutiques and international designer shops. Brands like Chanel, Gucci, and Alexander Wang can be found nestled among independent designer stores, providing a unique and diverse shopping experience that ultimately suits every budget.

SoHo’s combination of luxury fashion, artistic ambiance, and charming cafes make it a favourite destination for fashion enthusiasts looking for a blend of sophistication and downtown cool. Whether you’re searching for avant-garde designs or classic elegance, New York City offers a wealth of luxury shopping destinations to satisfy every fashion connoisseur.

Dubai, United Arab Emirates

Dubai has solidified its position as a luxury shopping destination, thanks in part to its tax-free shopping policy. Visitors can enjoy substantial savings on goods due to the absence of value-added tax (VAT) and customs duties, making it a particularly attractive destination for luxury shoppers hoping to score a bargain.

With its state-of-the-art infrastructure, excellent connectivity and a world-class hospitality industry, Dubai attracts millions of tourists each year. The city’s luxurious resorts, extravagant attractions, and vibrant entertainment options contribute to an overall experience that complements the thrill of luxury shopping.

One of the most renowned spots is the Dubai Mall. Not only is it the largest shopping mall in the world, but it also houses an extensive collection of luxury brands. Here, you’ll find flagship stores of iconic fashion houses such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada. The Dubai Mall also boasts The Fashion Avenue, a dedicated precinct for luxury fashion, where you can explore a curated selection of high-end boutiques and designer labels.

For a unique shopping experience, the City Walk is another noteworthy destination. Situated in a vibrant neighbourhood, City Walk offers a fusion of luxury shopping, dining, and entertainment. It showcases an array of international fashion brands, including high-end designers like Balenciaga, Alexander McQueen, and Dolce & Gabbana. With its pedestrian-friendly streets, contemporary architecture, and upscale boutiques, City Walk provides a chic and stylish environment for luxury shoppers.

London, England

London presents an enticing blend of regal charm and avant-garde innovation. One of the most iconic areas for luxury shopping in London is Bond Street. Located in the heart of the city’s prestigious Mayfair district, Bond Street is home to an impressive lineup of renowned designer boutiques. Here, you’ll find flagship stores of high-end fashion houses such as Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, and Alexander McQueen. 

Another prominent location for designer fashion shopping in London is Sloane Street. Situated in the affluent district of Knightsbridge, Sloane Street offers a curated selection of luxury brands, including iconic names like Christian Dior, Prada, Burberry, and Tom Ford. This exclusive street is known for its upscale boutiques and upscale ambiance, attracting fashion-savvy shoppers looking for the latest runway trends and timeless classics.

London’s iconic department stores, such as Harrods and Selfridges, are also not to be missed. These renowned establishments offer a comprehensive range of designer fashion brands across multiple floors. From high-end designer labels to emerging fashion talent, these department stores provide an immersive shopping experience with their opulent interiors and vast selections.

Baring it all in Baden-Baden at the Friedrichsbad bath house

by Ann Ruppenstein

Not one to shy away from immersing myself in the real local culture firsthand, I decided to suck it up for the authentic experience.


To be or not to be naked, that is the question. 

I’m in Baden-Baden, Germany, one of the UNESCO-listed Great Spa Towns of Europe, faced with the decision to bare it all — or not. There are two thermal baths in the historic spa town, a contemporary one built in 1985 and a traditional one with impressive Renaissance-style architecture dating back to 1877.

From the offset, the authentic Friedrichsbad sounds like the obvious frontrunner, but the caveat is that it’s textile-free, meaning no swimsuits are allowed. As tour guide Joachim Schadendorf puts it in simple terms, “this one is serious and that one is fun.”

Not one to shy away from immersing myself in the real local culture firsthand, I decided to suck it up (or more like suck it in) for the authentic experience.

It’s definitely not the most popular option, especially amongst North American travellers, who tend to be more hesitant to strip down completely amongst strangers, including members of the opposite sex.

By the numbers, at pre-pandemic levels, the modern Caracalla bath down the road — where swimsuits are worn — attracted an average of half a million visitors per year, whereas roughly only 70,000 people frequented Friedrichsbad. Here’s to the road less travelled! 

Friedrichsbad_32-2 (c) Baden-Baden Tourism Board, N. Dautel


The skinny on the dip

After paying the €35 entrance fee, I headed to the co-ed changing area with two others and was relieved to see a tiny sheet in the locker. After slipping out of my clothes, I wrap it around my body and strut to the main spa entrance with confidence. 

That’s when a male staff member greets us — in full spa attire in case you were wondering — to explain that the space is divided into a circuit of 17 different stations. After showering before station seven, “you leave the sheet in the laundry pile,” he said, motioning to my short wrap.

Following an initial cleansing shower, the process began with various warm and hot air baths, providing an identical sensation to being in an over-sized sauna. I eased myself into the au natural experience by opening my sheet once I’d settled onto one of the wooden loungers.

This isn’t so bad. 

A few steps later, at dreaded stop number seven, the time had come to commit fully to the nudist lifestyle before entering the first thermal steam bath in the circuit. I was determined to proceed in the name of research. “Alright, let’s do this,” I said out loud, more so to motivate myself, that this was indeed happening.

Trying to avoid eye contact with all the passing private parts, we ducked into a corner of the steam room, placing fresh hygienic matts underneath our bottoms before sitting down. Then, quite astonishingly, like the steam evaporating in the room, within minutes we were no longer phased by the fact that we were stark naked and quickly embraced the more liberal European views on letting it all hang out and feeling comfortable in our own skin.

It was either that, or the steam went to my head. 

“I was nervous at first, but you realize that everybody just kind of looks the same,” one of my travel writer companions, whom I’d only met two days earlier, whispered.

The art of bathing, Roman and Irish style

Design wise, the centrepiece of Friedrichsbad is an intricate 17-metre high dome set above a circular pool. Before I knew I would muster up the courage to get to this point, I told myself that getting to see the architecture would make it worthwhile. Now, floating on my back while looking up at the elaborate ceiling, it didn’t disappoint, and I couldn’t help but think of the historic figures who swam in this very spot more than 146 years ago. 

“Here at the Friedrichsbad, you lose track of time within 10 minutes and track of the world within 20,” wrote literary great Mark Twain after a visit in the late 19th century. 

For me, the unexpected highlight of the experience was a visit to what’s called the relaxation room, a dark room filled with multiple beds. After laying down and wrapping myself in the warm blanket, I dozed off for a power nap, in deep relaxation mode. 

I could have stayed for hours, but naturally, I also had to see what the other Caracalla spa was all about. Aside from the fact that visitors weren’t naked, which almost felt strange after fully embracing the other way, another key difference is that it’s family-friendly (meanwhile, Friedrichsbad is adults-only with a minimum age requirement of 17 years). A highlight of the Caracalla bath is the outdoor area, where a steamy mist layer appears above the rock grotto formation when the temperature outside is cold enough. This is also where to go for additional spa services, such as massages, and a variety of saunas and treatment rooms. 

In my natural element

Notably, the thermal waters in both baths come from the 12 natural springs that push out roughly 800,000 litres of mineral-rich water a day at scorching temperatures as high as 68°C, first discovered some 2,000 years ago.

Friedrichsbad was, from day one, a huge success. It was the biggest and most modern bath in Europe. It is a so-called Roman-Irish bath, combining the Roman tradition of bathing in different temperatures with the Irish tradition of steam baths,” noted Baden-Baden based tour guide Katharina Koerner, adding that as a UNESCO listed building, it virtually looks the same as the day it opened. “In Roman tradition, it is, of course, textile-free to this day. Some people say, oh, I wanted to go in there, but in that case I prefer the Caracalla, where I can wear my bathers… We had an article about it once called ‘nothing but the comb’ because that’s one of the big advantages, you don’t have to come prepared.”

Just prepared to bare it all, that is.

For the full digital edition of this story, click here.

Read more stories in the new OFFSHORE Summer 2023 issue. Available now!